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Re: Brake question
#11
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Tim Cole
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A note on shoe centering. The procedure in the manual only works for new parts. If your drums are worn it does'nt work properly unless the new linings are fitted to the drum diameter. If you don't have shoes fitted to the drums then just leave the eccentric slot near vertical

Posted on: 2012/4/13 17:20
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Re: Brake question
#12
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Joseph Earl
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One more brake related question:

The rear axle nuts are supposed to be torqued to around 200-250 ft/lbs. I initially tightened them with an impact wrench (1/2" drive) while still in the air. After installing the wheels and letting the car back down, I took a very large 3/4" drive torque wrench, set it at 225, and proceeded to tighten. I had to set the hand brake, as the car wanted to move. After turning the nut some, I was worried that I would over tighten it and break something- even though the wrench never clicked. I guess I'm not trusting the wrench. I even put it on it's lowest setting (100) and couldn't get a click, with the nut still turning.

Do those axle nuts require that much torque? This is a BIG torque wrench I'm using, I've never used it before, and I'm concerned that it's not working properly.

Thanks, all!

Posted on: 2012/4/13 22:02
Joey

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"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

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Re: Brake question
#13
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PackardV8
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To test a torque wrench obtain another torque wrench, twist the two torque wrenches against each and note the readings.

Unless u are operating under a production or commision service envioronment then the clicker or preset type torque wrenches are best avoided. Use torque wrenches that have a pointer and a scale for more precision/custom building type work..

Posted on: 2012/4/13 22:20
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: Brake question
#14
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Joseph Earl
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Finding another 3/4" drive torque wrench might be a problem... buying one is OOTQ. I could test it against a 1/2" drive one at a lower reading.

Posted on: 2012/4/13 23:30
Joey

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"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

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Re: Brake question
#15
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Owen_Dyneto
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Do those axle nuts require that much torque?

Yes, they need to be VERY tight. And the threads and taper surfaces need to be clean & dry. Remember, it's the fit of the taper that propels the car, the key and keyway isn't enough to take the forces involved. My 1/2 inch torque wrench (beam and pointer type) goes to 250 ft-lbs.

Posted on: 2012/4/14 8:08
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Re: Brake question
#16
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Phil Randolph
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You could always put a 200 lb. weight (like me) on a 1 foot long wrench.

Posted on: 2012/4/14 9:48
1938 1601 Club Coupe
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Re: Brake question
#17
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Tim Cole
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Keep in mind that 200-250 ft lbs is a 25% range.

I have taken cars apart that were high mileage coming out of storage and the axle nuts came off with a 1/2 inch breaker bar and there was no problem with the axles.

If the nut is not bottoming then there is something wrong with the way the drum is installed.

Prior to tightening the nut make sure that the drum slides freely over the axle and seats soldily with a good solid "thunk". Then use a bar to tighten the nut. An impact does not provide any sense of yield. When that unit bottoms you will feel it and from there 200 ft lbs is going to be the next slot in the castle nut.

Unless you are planning on doing burnouts I wouldn't worry about damaging the axle.

Posted on: 2012/4/14 10:29
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