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It appears that my water temperature gauge has decided not to work. 194 Super. I will investigate further tomorrow, but if I cannot fix, who is doing these gauges now? If several places the place closest to the Southwest if best. Thanks

Is it the gauge that doesn't work, or is it the sender?

Bruce Abbott in Oregon did my 1940 Super 8 entire dash of instruments including the capillary tube for the Temp Gauge.
abbottinstrumentrestoration.com/

Not sure which is malfunctioning. But would tend to believe it to be the bulb or line? The gauge has always worked fine. Will need to get to it under the dash in the next couple days. Is there a test for the gauge itself? Thanks

It's all one interconnected assembly. The only test is to pull everything out intact. Then check the gauge mechanism for free movement and apply a drop of oil to the linkage pivot points.

Test the sender bulb in a pot of boiling water. If there is no movement on the gauge, then the Ether gas has leaked out of the tube/bulb. Which means the entire assembly will need to be sent out for a rebuild/recharge.

This is a job you only want to have to do once, as removing and installing the temp gauge assembly without kinking it the tubing is not for the faint-hearted.

Big Kev is right. That sensing bulb will have to come thru the firewall.
You can reach under the dash on the left side and feel for the retaining nuts between the speedometer and the temp/oil pressure gauge. You just need to get a nut driver on them to loosen them. And the ones on the far left of the gauge to get the gauge loose, then push it gently back towards the firewall and down under the dash so you can bend the retaining lip and remove the glass cover. If the needle was stuck to one side as they do, follow Kev’s suggestions. Warm up the engine and see if it moves. If so, put it back. If not, you’ll have to disconnect the bulb from the engine, open the firewall portal and make room to get the bulb to the interior. Then I suggest you send it to Abbott.

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A couple more dash shots showing the far left drivers side retaining nuts, these must be removed to get the gauge out. The ones next to the speedo do not.

Also showing the gauge housing with the metal lid with viewing glass pried off around the lid to access the gauge itself. These are ammeter, gas gauges, but they open the same.

Just for encouragement

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Thanks all, mine is a bit more complicated as the rear compartment enunciator speaker needs to be removed. Looking at the cable I see a one inch dark spot, while I was doing engine work it may have come in contact with 6 volts and burned a hole in the cable, who knows?

I can ask you one more question. The throttle knob and cable. Over the years have always had to fight with it to be easy to pull in and out. I have made sure there are no kinks and routed directly as possible. When not attached to the throttle linkage works kind of, the throttle linkage when not attached to the cable works fine, but when connected together it is just about impossible to pull out the knob at the dash. Over the years have tried a couple different things nothing seems to work? Any ideas?