Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I don't think it is the same item. If the patent drawing is halfway accurate, the bleed screw is different and not in the same location. I know for a fact the Packard item has a pointed end which will perforate the diaphragm or at least ruin the needle seat so it no longer controls air flow if turned in too far. The Packard item also has no outside spring -- just a small 3" long bowden cable out the end.

Ok. thanks HH56. So the 55 coordinator has only air inside but was to perform the same function of cycling the wipers 3 times after the last washer squirt. Do you have a vendor for all the seals,valves etc in the Packard wiper motor including the lid? As i said I dont think I can have a problem with the dash sw or vac lines under the dash as the "doner" motor of unknown yr works strong from the same switch and the vacuum source and storage canister and check valves must be ok too. I saw the kit for the washer pump. seems expensive! I guess the days of rebuild kits of 11 or 16 dollars are gone. I saw another club member went with a 250 electric. Seems to make more sense if the pump kit is 100 and the wiper motor kit is around the same and you are saying there may be an issue with the coordinator if someone turned the adj screw in too far.

So the 55 coordinator has only air inside but was to perform the same function of cycling the wipers 3 times after the last washer squirt.

Once the water stops flowing and the valve cuts vacuum, the coordinator is a sealed cylinder. The only way for diaphragm to get back to home position is the bleed screw slowly admitting air so the spring can move the diaphragm back. The rate of air the screw allows in controls the 3-4 sweeps although that varied by operator preference. Packard recommended 11 strokes when they first used them in 54.

I believe it has been reported Ficken bought all the old Trico stock and has other needed items mfg for his own use. Since he does not sell kits I think his rebuild service is the only option on your motor -- unless you are fortunate to find a kit or new motor on ebay someone is offering from old dealer stock. Even if you did find a kit, I would be thinking the gaskets and seals had dried or shrunk and probably not be in the best condition.

As to the $250 motor, that is always an option but is not strictly a drop in. The motor itself might need a couple of spacers but otherwise bolts in nicely -- but the new switch is electric. While the new switch will fit the dash hole, bezel and knob, there will be a visible and ugly space the old sweep control lever used to cover. You will have to destroy a good lever or figure something else to cover the raw opening. If you destroy your old lever it means finding another if you ever want to go stock again. Also, the coordinator will not work with the electric motor unless you make some kind of added module to accommodate the coordinator mechanism and the original switch cable. I built a module because I wanted to keep the car "unmodified" so the electric could be easily removed and original motor put back -- but more just to prove it could be done. It was enough of a project, I doubt it is something most would want to do.

Once you add the cost of a new motor and all the work needed if you want to keep the coordinator, the rebuild price and being able to keep all your existing stock items intact does not look too bad. As many have reported, Ficken rebuilt motors work quite well.

Attach file:

---

  (37.91 KB)