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39sixsedanman, I just noticed your signature note re speedometer shop owner, so I would defer to your advice as gospel. Can I ask you for some more detail on lubricating the speedometer head? Is it reasonable/feasible to do this with the unit in place, or does it have to be removed?? I was thinking of removing the coupling nut from the back of the speedometer and spraying some light, white grease into the hole. Right idea, or is that a 'carnival fix' approach?? It's just that taking the whole unit out, is a pretty major job. Thanks for your expert advice. Chris

I cant see how you'd be able to do it in the dash. There should be 4 nuts holding it in place (if I recall the 37s correctly. The attached photo highlights the mounting and magnet shaft lube location.
I hope this helps.
Par

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I'll try to post a photo example of the necessary internal worm lubrication also.

For the 37 and many other years, the decorative outer bezel can be removed by gently unbending the bezel edge (see previously posted photo of area just below the red circled mounting tab). The bezel sandwiches and centers the glass and outer metal mask (behind numbers) in the case of most AC, Stewart Warner, Auto Lite and King Seeley units of the 30's and 40's.

For some units, the next step is to remove the two frame to enclosure screws on the backside of the unit. This will allow you to remove the mechanism without having to disturb the pointer or the small faceplate. This will allow access to the removable worm gears and delicate odometer(s).

Pat

Thanks Pat, that is really helpful. I AM going to take mine out as it is making noise and the needle is doing some bouncing around. After a while on the road, it seems to settle down but I fear there may be resistance in the gears and mechanism that, if they were to bind up, would probably snap the cable, and then I'd have NO speedometer and a much bigger bill. Thanks for the pics; once I get mine out, I may take some of mine and ask you a couple more questions... Chris.

Happy to help. As a general rule, many a needy speedometer have been diagnosed as cable problems. THe owner replaces the cable with a new, strong cable which masks the problem for perhaps a few hundred miles.

Meanwhile, the already aching speedometer is growing worse, possibly damaging delicate components. Soon, the next cable snaps.

Punchline: if you ever notice your needle bouncing, the culprit is usually the speedometer itself. If every squealing, definitely the speedometer and disconnect the cable immediately to avoid more damage.

Pat

Pat, if I take mine out, can I send it to your speedometer shop for refurbishing?? If just general lube and service (obviously parts would be extra) what ballpark would I be in?
Chris.

39sixsedanman, am I understanding correctly that on the 37 Junior, there are 4 nuts holding the speedometer into the dash? By removing the nuts, does the gauge just slide out of the dash? If that is correct, why would I need to remove the bezel? Not trying to be dense, but my car is stored across town and I'm not able to have a look at mine right at the moment.

Cartrich - it's not QUITE that simple... the 4 nuts that hold the speedometer in place are also shared by the R&L sides of the temp/oil gauge and the ammeter/gas gauge, so there is a bit of fiddling to get it all out and apart. And obviously the cable connection and the high beam/back light need to be disconnected. Pat is talking about splitting the glass out of the unit after it is removed to get at the guts. I'm going to remove mine tomorrow and I'll try and get some pics that might be of some help to you... Chris.

That will be a great help as I am proceeding in baby steps and nothing is easy

once the 4 nuts are off and the cable and light socket removed, the whole speedo is then pulled back and out. Not difficult, just fussy access. Once out, send it to Pat.