Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Quote:

The tops on these are leather which cleans up much nicer than vinyl can. Used Meguiars Leather and Vinyl Cleaner then Leather Conditioner.

The metal I did with aluminum tape. The concern with plating is that they are soooo pitted that it wouldn't look too good. What I did is blast off all the rust with a steel wire brush, then used cheap paint to help fill in the pitting. Then just used the tape over it. The center is one piece of tape and the frame is 4 pieces. I didn't really bother cleaning up the inside as it's very difficult and no one is actually going to smoke in the car.

Amortized materials cost for one ashtray is on the order of ONE dollar 🤑

Kevin.

I watched a lot of u tube. Guys doing golf clubs.
And restoring old tin plate Tonka trucks.

And. Making nickel with basic home stuff. Forget exactly. Think vinegar is one.

But I think more work than spud wants to do...

Would take time with the rust . Filling and sanding

Polished nickel looks great.

HPH - never thought about using aluminum tape. Pretty quick and easy way of improving the look.

Riki - You and I are probably watching the same videos on golf club restoration. I think I can make the copper and nickel baths pretty cheap, just need to get a benchtop power supply and a few other supplies. Electrolysis cleaner, nickel flash, and then bright nickel solution. I also need to be able to polish the parts prior to all this, so I need to get a wheel. Lots of work and not a quick process, but the results look nice.

-Kevin

I bought one of the higher-end kits from Gold Plating Solutions in the UK that contained the materials needed for copper, zinc and nickel plating but they have others too and the units have a small footprint so take little space. Some more common items, such as an aquarium heater and some deionized water were purchased online from domestic vendors. The company’s support is excellent and they have fast shipping although Customs was a pain getting the chemicals through for which UPS charged a brokerage fee.

With a kit like this, you should be able to apply multiple copper layers, sanding in between, to fill the pits and irregular surfaces which is what professional platers do, apply a layer or two of nickel, then some chrome. I did not buy the chrome solution as I have no need for it. The kit wasn’t inexpensive but seemed a good price for all it includes and it can also do brush plating for larger items. Unfortunately, it cannot strip off old plating.

I’ve considered those before but the space, time, ventilation, and expenses involved were never particularly attractive to me. Something more for people that have actual heated shops.

BTW here is another comparison with the aluminum tape. The “comb” is chrome but the attached piece is tape.

Carb rebuilding saga is finally coming to an end. All was going smoothly until I realized the accelerator ball was stuck. Took a “little while” to circle back around but now it is unstuck. Just need to clean and reassemble and when fair weather comes I will tune up the engine and get it going for the summer.

Tune-up tips appreciated. Might just take it to a shop, IDK.

I am also rebuilding my clipper carb soon.

Both in the same AACA thread:https://forums.aaca.org/topic/407425-rochester-4gc-accelerator-pump-ball-check-is-stuck-55-packard-400/

Got the carb reinstalled. I have a question on the accelerator linkage. The resting position of the linkage was a short distance in front (1/2"?) of the attachment hole at closed throttle. I didn't adjust the linkage, just attached it. But is it normal for the linkage to rest ahead of the closed throttle position? Maybe a dumb question lol

Also does the accelerator pump lever normally press into the boot? It's a 4GC carb.

No.

It should rest up.

The height is 1-1/16.

Taken under the 90 degree bend

Is the boot stuck?

Quote:

It's not popping up on its own, but it's seated properly.

I set on on the bench to 1-1/16, but now it reads 1" even. I'll tweak it.