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West,
Packard Motors has them for $400. Fluted.

http://www.packardmotorcar.com/index.php/trim-strip/

My replacements (one original fell off and the restorer replaced both of them to match) are solid aluminum. I thought I'd check with a shop about putting the groove in them. Otherwise I would get the ones from Packard Motor Car. They are better than original.

I am taking one running board to American Metal Cleaning. They cook off the rubber and then run it through a de-ruster tank. Then resurfacing at the paint shop. Then adding the new rubber ones from Steele Rubber. We (Bryan Parker, who has done this before) are going to do one at a time so we have one to look at while the other is being put down with Formica contact cement.

Joe

Thanks, Joe
That's better than the $800 I was quoted a couple of years ago. One thing confuses me about their price list, though, is that even though I've got the longest wheelbase, my trim is shorter than most of the 1940 models because it stops at the front of the running board as opposed to going all the way to the front wheel-well. Yet, the shorter trim costs more.
I'll have to give them a call and find out the dimensions of their different trims.

I just corresponded with Mr. Gullickson, and he does not make the strips in my size (88 inches). Although his website says that he has them for the 148-inch wheelbase, evidently some 148-inch cars have longer strips, which he does have.

West,
I haven't seen further comment on the headlight trim. I started putting together my headlights tonight. 25 years ago when I removed the trim I put a little twist in it prying it off. Now the headlights are painted and replacing the trim was one of the least pleasant things I've done, short of popping valves., esp the first time.

It wouldn't go on no matter how much pressure I put on it. I taped both sides of the center retaining strip and scraped off the excess paint with a tiny flat file end. It looked like I was scratching the paint, put it was excess falling from the edge of the painted strip. Then I tried again to press it on. When that didn't work I lined it up on the curved end and tapped the front end with a rubber mallet. Tapping moved towards whacking and thud, suddenly the front end felt solid. The stainless strip would fit itself to one edge, so I gripped it and pulled it against me tapping it, fairly healthy hits, from the far side until it popped in. I moved along about a half inch at a time. Once it grabs, it's down and stays down. But I didn't try to do the opposite curved end, just kept working my way there. Just getting in place took out most of the twist. Where it wasn't straight I tapped it more and improved the look.

There's a metal guy here I may take it to because I believe it could be perfectly straight if tapped wi the right tools by someone who knows what they are doing.
I thought for sure I would put a big scratch in the paint, but didn't. And the thing is on there, maybe better because of the paint.

Just don't hit too hard and blame it one me.

I'll take pix when I do the other side.

Are you referring to this strip? For me, once i was sort of confident that the strip was going to conform to the shape of the headlight, I started at the rear and just manipulated and pressed it into place gradually all the way toward the front.

I can't explain why yours would have been so tough to get on. Mine went on quite easily.

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I know.
1. The new paint and clear coating on the retaining piece the trim fits on.
2. The twist.
After it was on, it was really on. I used a piece of wood, a curved handle of of a little brass brush, to hold against theinstalled trim. It's taking out the twist. Very forgiving. I'lll take pix tonight.

Because no more was said, I assumed you were holding off until someone responded to your request for experience re-installing.

So "nevermind."

Spent some time with the Packard this summer, during extremely short bits of time available.

First thing was to install two new outside running board trim pieces. They are not correct for 1940, but (1) I don't think the correct size is available, and (2) they didn't cost nearly as much as what a set of correct ones would have (if available).

Replaced the pinion seal with the help of three good friends. We also cleaned the driveshaft inside and out. Because the driveshaft has a Zerk grease fitting at the front, we took it apart and removed all the old caked on grease. This can cause a vibration, slight or major, depending on just how uneven the old caked grease has mounted itself on the inside wall.

Once everything was put back together, we were successful in eliminating the pinion-seal leak. With advice from Fred Kanter, we used a NOS seal that was soaked for a few days in gear oil. Also, the slight vibration that I was feeling at ~40mph seems to have disappeared.

Also changed the oil in preparation for the 4-hour drive up to Canton, Ohio for the CCCA Grand Classic. I decided to use full synthetic.

The last thing I did was gave the paint another good hand polish. Will wash and wax after I arrive.

hope you arrive safely!

Of course, if you wash and polish a black car and have it all ready for a show, the rain will come down soon after. It did.

naturally!