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Carl,

Try an impact wrench. That is what I used to break those exhaust bolt loose. If I remember right I had to use a long impact extension to reach the bolts with the impact gun. The impact hammering does a better job of breaking them loose with actually snapping them.

BigKev-

Man you are good! The impact wrench worked great, both bolts backed out after about 100 thunks, no breakage.

Thanks again...

-Carl

Got the intake and exhaust manifold off today; one broken stud.

Found the exhaust leaks - the gaskets were gone. I'll bring the exhaust/intake assembly into the local repair machine shop and see how flat they are.

One of the clamp-exhaust manifold hold down (part number 5.0901) was cracked in half.

There are three manifold nuts that are blocked by the manifold, making them very difficult to remove. I ended up using a box end wrench, moving the nut a sixteenth of a turn each time. The entire stud came out for two of them.

The fuel pump came off without complaint; there was no hold down wire on the nut. I'm going to order a rebuild kit from Then and Now tomorrow, along with the manifold gaskets and the header gasket.

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Kanter wants $50 for manifold bolts, doesn't that seem steep?

Is it a good idea to put new bolts/nuts in after 57 years?

There seems to be a chunk of metal in the exhaust pipe, was this part of the gasket or some connection to the manifold - see 1st picture below-

And the auto choke tube seems to be intact throughout the manifold; but the bottom of the tube was a large exhaust leak when it was running. Ideas? (second picture).

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So, I left the intake and exhaust manifolds together to check for flatness. They were way off, over 1/8 inch. I removed the two to clean them thoroughly, and will rebolt them and take them to a machine shop to have them resurfaced. Does that seem like the right thing to do?

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Wow, 1/8 is a lot, hard to believe. But they've got to be flat within the ability of the gasket to accomodate. All I can suggest is that you use a new gasket on the heatbox, and when you bolt them together, check to make sure whatever freedom of movement you have before tightening is set to minimize the amount of machining.

What is the Heatbox?

You mentioned it once before, and by guessing I assume it's where the intake and exhaust meet. There's no gasket there...and there is no gap in mine either. The 1/8 gap I mentioned is on the face of the manifolds to the head of the engine - the exhaust manifold is 1/8 inch farther away from the head than the intake...see the pictures with the red level.

Heatbox is the chamber made up at the juncture of the intake and exhaust manifolds where the heat riser valve deflects the hot exhaust up towards the base of the carburetor. Should be a gasket where the two manifolds join. Aren't there 3 bolts that fasten the heatbox halves together? That's where there should be a gasket.

Yes, I saw the differences in height between the intake and exhaust and the red level. I can't believe there is that much difference. Both manifolds have to tighten simoultaneously and uniformly against the block. If you were to machine the manifolds individually, they would lay flat against the block but the heatbox bolts might not line up, that's why its common to surface them as an assembly.

EDIT - let me put it another way. The surface of the engine block where the manifolds fasten - it's a single flat surface, right? As the manifolds individually tighten to the block, the holes that hold the two manifolds together at the heatbox must come into alignment at the same time.

Dave-

Thanks for the continued information.

Okay, I didn't know there was a gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifold. Yes, there are 3 bolts.

BTW, thanks for the drilling information! I removed the heat tube with a 21/64 drill bit, everything came out just fine.

I'll bolt the intake and exhaust manifold together and let you know what the machine shop says.

OK, good news. Just be careful when putting in the new heat tube. The softer the steel, the better, just ordinary steel fuel or brake line of the proper OD and ID to accept the tube from the choke. As I said, try putting a small flare on one end, and then, supporting the weight on the end of the tube with the flare, try using a conical drift like a lathe center or the like to start the swedge at the other end such that the force of your action is exerted primarily against the tube, not the cast iron. Easy does it.