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How about starting to soaking the suspected rusty areas?

I borrowed this from another thread

April 2007 issue of Machinist Morkshop Magazine. They arranged a subjective test of all of the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a scientifically rusted environment.
Penetrant: Average Load:

none 516 ft lbs
WD40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liquid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone mix 53.

ATF Acetone mixtures appears to work the best.

Soooo Frustrated!!!!

Wife is pushing to scrap the car, stating the cost with a total 100% teardown. I reminded her while this certainly is 1000% more work and repairs then what originally thought, it is still very restorable just gonna take time and money.

That is a tough one and my sympathies for the decision you have to make. You have done so much already that at this point is has to be a labor of love and determination to finish.

I would guess by now the majority of the body rust has been taken care of so seems a shame to junk all that work. How is the general condition of the frame? I know you are concerned about the TL being seized but the question now is what is giving the grief & is it one side or both sides and is it the lack of a heavy enough tool causing the problem or is it actually seized.

If the frame requires a lot of repair then maybe the wife has a point but if it is in decent condition otherwise with just needing the typical things even a non rusted car would have done like bushings and seals then maybe it is worth continuing.

The other question of interior, engine and trans, I can't remember if you have covered in detail but those are expensive items.

Howard- The frame is not without issue as well. Both front outriggers are rusted though on top. One of the main reasons for a complete teardown Is all the rubber is rotted off including the Torsion system. A few pics below, there was almost nothing left of the front sway bar rubber.

Interior is almost flawless, I think that is what was so mesmerizing.

Engine- Owner claimed he had it recently running with a gas can to the fuel pump. It would not start for me and a compression test was 45 on the high cylinder. Complete overhaul......This the car that the 374 was switched out to a 352 that I discovered after the fact.

Tranny- unkown but given the rest, Overhaul warranted.

Sad part is I can pick up the black car in the pics for $1500. 90% complete and with what I have 100%. 374 with air, engine was running when removed in the 80's. Car repainted in late 80's and given up on. certainly more in line with what I had in mind but momma is saying no.

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In my opinion you need that black car. You can have a really nice car between the two. Make a deal with her that you will keep both cars until fall and will scrap what is left. That way she has a time frame and maybe more willing. Also explain how far ahead time and money wise you will be with the black car. I was in the same boat you are but it was my wife that came up with the scenario I'm giving you.

SUCCESS, I got the Left T/L unloaded, what a chore. To recap, I unloaded it from the front. I ran a hook and rod through the shock tower and lifted the load arm. I then removed the upper and lower suspension arms, and then backed off the threaded rod.

That being said, even after unloading, the rear was still froze. I finally got it to knock loose and can now move the rear arm up and down although yet with good amount of force.

I almost never got the compensator link knocked out from the rust, right now, I can not budge the main T/L from the rear load arm.

I am taking tomorrow off to grill and eat, I am letting the area soak with some oil for a day. When I get it out, I will post the picks of a rusted T/L

Perhaps I am confused--is that engine hanging on the chain supposed to be the 374? All that green paint tells me 56 352. Now you can get the black car for $1000.

That caught my eye too, been there done that with this car. I ask for the block numbers to confirm. 440971. Still doesn't explain the green.

Lots happening with off line chat. I have someone who contacted me that they also purchased a Packard from the same person as I did and they stated that they too were misrepresented. I guess we know who to buy with caution from.

On a Terrific note, Thanx a ton to the gentleman who will let me use their factory Tool when I am ready to rewind the T/L.

back to a positive swing but still a lot of repair to go.

I hope your positives keep coming on your project.

Have you seen this frame?http://www.ebay.com/itm/56-PACKARD-PATRICIAN-FRAME-ELECTRIC-SUSPENSION-HOT-ROD-RAT-ROD-UNIQUE-FORD-CHEVY-/271307292409?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2b2cbef9&vxp=mtr

Not sure if it's any better.