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I know it's maybe extra work but I think before anything else, it would be good to go thru and absolutely verify the electrical. Disconnect each and every long run or wire you cannot visually see is correct one end at a time. Connect a long jumper wire if needed to one end and go to the other end where it is supposed to be connected and disconnect it there. Using the ohmmeter verify the wire connected to the jumper is the correct wire or it's good thru the plastic connectors. As each is verified, reconnect. Just follow the schematic and go point to point to point fixing a wire or switch as needed.

The only item you won't be able to verify with car standing still is the governor switch itself. Tim did mention checking the ground connection from the case to the little brass strip. If you have the two wire governor, make sure the OD is connected to the pigtail off the bare terminal toward center of bottom cover -- not the pigtail coming out of a small raised bump or enclosure. That is for the clutch on cars so equipped.

Some previously found switch problems if you have issues: The lockout switch has been known to wear the plunger at the end so when knob is pushed all the way in, sometimes the switch isn't made. The kickdown switch should be closed when accelerator is anywhere but flat to the floor. If the two terminal switch had been replaced sometime using a newer 4 terminal, the kickdown side or pair of terminals is closest to the plunger. If you have the reverse safety switch in the battery feed to relay 1, it should open the power when car is placed in reverse.

I checked wiring all appears to go where they are suppose to. The only one I did not check is #3 which is very difficult to reach. Verfied #4 on solenoid goes to 4 on relay/#7 on solenoid also goes to #4 on relay/#6 solenoid goes to #6 on relay. I grounded the centrigual switch and shorted the kickdown switch-relay comes in and light on dash. I used a long piece of wire to verfy connections.

Everything checks out except the ground is off the centrifugal switch and the kickdown switch is open. I am still puzzled by sound of solenoid-it is not a clunk

The operation as I understand it-light on dashboard when lite means the unit is in OD?

Do you think the solenoid is operating properly?

Since 7 on solenoid goes thru light bulb to relay 4 and light is working, that sounds good.

If I understood yesterday, you normally have continuity between solenoid 4 and ground. When you touch the wire and hear a click & then remove the wire the continuity is no longer there. If so, that sounds like the solenoid is coming in. If I also understand yesterday, when you remove power or wire to solenoid 3, continuity returns between 4 and ground. If so, then that would also indicate solenoid is dropping out -- so again working and wire 3 to relay is also good.

The light does not mean it is in OD. It means it can go into OD when the driver is ready. Light comes on when the governor has reached speed -- roughly 17-22 mph and other conditions are met.

In a working system that would mean the car is at speed, the relay has closed so solenoid is in the first stage of engagement and now all the driver has to do is lift his foot for an instant. Once he lifts his foot, the engine slows, balk ring walks backwards a fraction of an inch clearing the path for the solenoid to move and engage the pawl in the mechanism.

Once solenoid has moved pawl, the pull in contacts open at 4, solenoid preps contacts at 6 for eventual use and the contacts controlling the light at 7 open so light goes out and if everything mechanical is working, you are in OD.

I am a little curious about one thing. Is the light going out after you hear the click? If the continuity at 4 is opening, that must mean everything inside is perfectly lined up so solenoid can move enough and pawl is fully engaging. Not unheard of but a bit interesting. Might be nice to know what the other mechanic felt was wrong internally. Was there something missing or broken would be the question.

Cheating relay 5 allows the light to go on for now. With the kickdown switch problem, until that is fixed it should not be able to be going on as you are doing any regular driving.

Light stays on-solenoid obviously is doing something-it evidently opens the contacts to turn off pull in coil. The solenoid has not moved enough to push the pawl in thus turn off light at #7? Does this mean the solenoid is still suspect? Does rotation in the gear box influence the opeation?

The other mechanic is Mark Lambert-I will try to see if he remembers anything about the OD-unfortunately he gets involved with Peeble Beach-mid Aug? I will see if I get a response.

thks

David

The rotation has a great deal to do with it. Everything has to be lined up perfectly for the pawl to slide into position. It probably isn't and that would explain why you don't hear a clunk. There appears to be something else not quite right though.

The contact operation doesn't seem correct. I just checked one and it follows the Econo-Drive manual closely. With 4 apparently opening before 7 does, yours does not appear to be doing so.

On a properly working one, the pull in or 4 contacts do not open until the plunger has reached almost full travel -- roughly 1/2 inch. The light and ign cutout contacts are piggybacked and both operate simultaneously. The light opens 7 and the cutout closes 6 when the plunger has traveled slightly over 1/4 inch or about half the full travel.

With a question on the contacts, at this point it might be worthwhile to go ahead and pull the solenoid just to check more thoroughly. It will help to make a couple of scratch marks first to assist in keeping the spacer oriented properly. There is a service that is supposed to be done to the contacts periodically. Going by the statement it was said to be operating properly, it probably was removed and looked at previously. If so, there should be no need for servicing them again now. Hopefully there will be some info on the mechanical side.

For now, just let the solenoid hang and then provide a good solid ground to the case. You can do the same tests (holding the solenoid securely because it will want to kick) and see if the plunger snaps and I do mean snaps out 1/2 inch. At that point the 4 and 7 contact should both be open. Be sure to have proper power to 3 with the solenoid out and being tested. Without 3, as soon as 4 gets power the solenoid will start to "machine gun" if working properly.

When you are ready to reinstall, do the same thing electrically so it extends the plunger while you tilt it into the engagement slot of pawl. The procedure is on page 13 of Econo-drive training manual.

Just as a reference, here is a bit from the manual showing the contacts.

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I am sort of in the camp of taking the thing for a drive with the centrigual switch in the circuit and the kickdown switch shunted out of the circuit and see what happens. If damage could occur from this obviously I will change my course of action.

comments

thks

I am sort of in the camp of taking the thing for a drive with the centrigual switch in the circuit and the kickdown switch shunted out of the circuit and see what happens. If damage could occur from this obviously I will change my course of action.

comments

thks

No damage jumpering the kickdown switch but if OD does happen to work, you won't be able to drop out of overdrive if you need a sudden burst of power.

Just make sure whatever bypassing you do that it is absolutely impossible for the relay and solenoid to be engaged when you shift into reverse.

The only thing I will bypass is the kickdown switch. This will also veify if the centrigual switch is working

thks

David