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Don;

Here's a link to an OD teardown.

http://devestechnet.com/Figures/bwrebuild.pdf

By the way the 'missing' snap-ring was an item used on BW units in Lincoln, Mercury, & Fords, else not used.

dp

Great reference, thank you!

Within minutes of trying, I got the tail shaft off and see that everything is black inside and whatever it is on the surfaces doesn't seem to readily come off. The gear teeth themselves look okay, though. The transmission with broken gears from which I am getting the rear housing is beautiful inside so it appears I'll have to swap that bit too when I hadn't intended on it but seeing how it assembles, I would have had to anyway in order to replace the gasket between the main transmission housing and the adapter plate. Unfortunately the snap ring pliers I just got is not compatible with that type of clip so I'll have to find one that is.

After having said that and looking at the photos up lose, it looks as though the planetary will pull out without removing any clips if done in unison with the shaft beside it. I'll check tomorrow to see how that works.

Also I finally managed to get the parking brake cable sheath clamps removed from the parts car. The main difficulty - once I got it high enough so that I could get underneath - was that the bolt heads were so thin that I had difficulty keeping a socket on them but in the end I found the proper combination of socket and box wrench that worked and it also wasn't rusted together as I expected.

So, with this in-hand, I started to hang the cable into place by first putting it through the equalizer and loosely fitting it to one of the backing plates which I was pleased to discover had the attaching screws. However, when I went to attach the second side I discovered that the cable was about a foot and a half too short! Very disappointing as I've had this NOS cable for years and it was marked with the proper part number.

EDIT: It's possible I jumped the gun again on the cable as it may be okay after all. While the parking brake equalizer is the same across the models, the hook-bolt attaching isn't so I need to find the proper one before determining that the cable is too short.

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Here are the overdrive parts side by side and also I started a jack pumpectomy but didn't really have the energy for it. It was too late in the day and I was exhausted.

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Not much work today as the first half was going into town to fetch the flywheel but the rest of the clutch is still out for rebuild. It got up to 113 degrees today and even the shop was a bit uncomfortable so I was out there only long enough to assemble a small workbench that I picked up in town for the ultrasonic cleaner and to clear out the area where one car goes inside and drive it in. As I’m leaving tomorrow, the shop is now all closed up for the next time!

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I am leery of the single coat of sealer in the gas tank but Hirsch says that more coats can be added after the fact so I ordered another gallon. Should be more than enough for this tank and for my two motorcycle tanks with some left over.

In the meantime, I’m looking for the tank’s sender connector boot which I thought I had seen on the Steele site but cannot find it now and it’s not on the Metro Molded site either. Does anyone have a source?

The clutch is finally done and waiting for my arrival at the next shop visit! It ended up getting sent to Sacramento, CA for the work rather than to the closer Portland, OR place because they apparently no longer do clutches.

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I’ve booked to be back to my shop starting the second week in October. First order of business is the continuation of the transmission work and to remove the planetary cage. Is there any special tool needed and what is the process?

As for special tools, I also need to remove the governor to replace it with a better one and it appears to require a large but thin wrench. What size is it and how thin must it be?

Still looking for a 19-tooth speedometer drive gear in case anyone has one to spare. This fits a number of models with R11 overdrive including Henney-Packard.

Don, I used a large channel lock type pliers ground down to make the jaws thinner to remove the overdrive governor on my 47 Custom. You may be able to remove it without any tools, just grab it tightly and twist. It will come off easily either way. Of course, a proper type wrench is the best way to go.

Thank you. I’ve removed these before and didn’t recall having to use anything special but then I saw a photo of the wrench. My shop is very rural with only rudimentary power so I am really working with stone knives and bearskins (as Mr Spock once said) where grinding down something isn't possible. Also, I am typically at my shop for such a short time each visit and again because it's so rural that I need to have whatever special tools I might need waiting for me when I get there! However, I don't recall needing a tool to take these out in the past so I'm sure I can get it out again.

It looks like I may have found the pedestal for the siren that is supposed to be on the roof! It may not actually be the tall type as used on the military ambulances but close enough and a good pattern to have a taller one made if indeed it is supposed to have one that is taller. Looking at photos of civilian Packard ambulances, their siren is nearly sitting right down against the roof so this may indeed be the proper one at about 4.25” tall at the front.

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