Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

G'day Mal and all, With the end play adjustment for the axles, remember that there is a thrust block between the axles which should remain central. Tapping the opposite axle as Owen suggests wouldn't hurt the thrust block but may not move the opposite axle fully out if the thrust block bottoms on it's shaft. The recommended procedure is to push in or pull out on each axle shaft, adding or removing shims equally on each side to achieve the correct end play of .003 to .008, whilst still keeping the thrust block central. Best regards Peter Toet

One other thing Mal in the removal of the steering crank bolt. Rather than use heat, I have had success in the past by removing the grease nipple, drilling and tapping a half inch thread around an inch into the bolt. I was then able to extract the seized crank bolt, using a bolt shouldering onto and through a suitable socket. Once about 50 ft lbs torque extraction pressure is applied a gentle tap on the top of the bolt with a soft drift usually gets the crank bolt moving. Peter

Thursday 29th May 2008

Quote:
Quote:

Although no work on the '41, was able to drop off the Super 8 reversing light switch with Carol, Harvey's wife, this morning. And not just that, but also a '40 Willys hood ornament I'd found through the internet and this will my contribution to Harvey's Willys project as I'm indebted to him for the woodgraining. I'd ordered the hood ornament Friday 23rd May, Sydney time, from Willyz Replacement Parts of Alta Loma California, and a courier turned up with it about 8:15am today. All up 6 days, from ordering to receipt across the Pacific, not bad service at all!

Attach file:

---

  (13.47 KB)

Saturday 31st May 2008

Quote:

Peter,

We followed your suggestion today, and lo and behold - it works! Thank you, once more you've come to my rescue, although it was not quite as simple as suggested.

First, removal of the grease nipple was easy, but finding the right sized drill for the tap being used was another matter. You'd think that in a workshop with three blokes with separate sets of drill bits there'd be one of the right size. But no, so started with a smaller bit but couldn't tap the hole because it was too small. So I made a quick trip to the local hardware store and at a cost of AU$10.30 later, about US$9.90, we were in possession of the right sized bit - 11/32". Drilling, then tapping the hole was then so much easier. Next step was tightening the bolt into the newly threaded hole using a small piece of pipe and one very large steel washer and a number of smaller to give the clearance and length required. Then the gentle tap, or in this case not so gentle taps, as Wade pounded on a drift on the bolt from above I kept tightening the bolt from below as it very gradually loosened until we ran out of thread travel. So using a socket as another spacer, to compensate for the length the loosened crank bolt had travelled in its journey to freedom, we resumed our attack with Wade pounding and me tightening. This continued until the drift had driven the crank bolt flush with the cross member. At that point Wade using a smaller drift, thinner than the crank bolt, was able to drive out the crank bolt. And, Peter, at this point it was with the gentler taps you recommended. I've also bought a NOS Packard Steering Crank & Bushing Kit from eBay this morning so that'll be heading down under soon. Another thing, Harvey rang me on Thursday evening regarding the parts I'd taken over to him, and suggested that greasing the fitting might assist the process but as you'll see in the pic's it wouldn't have helped.

The rest of my time was spent cleaning up the crank arm and some other parts. This is in preparation for Wade and Gina's trip next week to the Border Run at Berri, South Australia. I will see Wade tomorrow on our club run to Bents Basin, and I'll report on that in the General Forum. But I wont see Wade after that as some other commitments of mine prevent me from seeing Wade early next week until his return from the Border Run in 2 weeks time. Needless to say I've got work to do while Wades away with cleaning the engine, accessories and firewall and painting these while they are relatively clear of accoutrements.

Attach file:

---

  (38.42 KB)


  (23.60 KB)


  (27.53 KB)


  (16.29 KB)


  (38.29 KB)

Sunday 1st June 2008

After getting home from the Packard run to Bents Basin, see the post in the General Forum, tonight I ordered some parts from Max following a recent survey of requirements by Wade.

Parts being:

Timing Case Cover Gasket(Fix oil leak)
Timing Cover Seal & Retainer(Fix oil leak)
Manifold Gasket Set(Repair broken stud)
Ignition Cable Set(Replace present radio supression cables)

Only trouble with ordering things from the US, besides the actual cost, is the shipping charge which can be significant! Although I hope, for these parts, it will be reasonable as the parcel shouldn't be large or heavy which are big factors in the shipping cost calculation. We'll see.

Monday 2nd June 2008

After yesterday's pleasant Packard outing it was back to reality down at the workshop. Only there for a few hours and in that times scraped the top of the front crossmember. This in preparation for cleaning and painting it in the near future as well as the firewall. And cleaned up the front of the block somewhat as the engine and accessories will also be painted shortly. The thing I did find is that the bolt hole for the steering crank pin is now elongated, especially at the top, as the pic's show.

Attach file:

---

  (35.46 KB)


  (18.14 KB)


  (6.57 KB)

G'day Mal, The elongation of the bolt hole is of no signifigance as the bush in the steering crank sits between the upper and lower bolt holes and the tightening of the bolt closes the holes to seat the bush firmly between them, but the arm is still able to rotate on the bushing. The bolt does not rotate. I would not be concerned in the least by elongation of the bolt hole. It may mean that the bolt was actually seized in service and HAS been rotating in the past. I would use a Molybond grease in the bushing as it is very efficient in preventing seizure. I have a new Belville spring for the pre-tension if you need one. Best regards, Peter Toet

Tuesday 3rd June 2008

Dropped into to the workshop, to catch up with Wade before he leaves early tomorrow for the Berri Border Run. Wade is the Treasurer of the Packard Club here and he'll be away when the next committee meeting is held so I'll present the financial statements on his behalf. Also found that Noel, who has a '41 160 Coupe, was there with his panelbeater/restorer mate Tony. So had a bit of a talk with them before they left. Noel had been "complaining" I was avoiding him at the workshop because I usually wasn't there when he came round so this time we actually made contact! Noel was saying his '41 chassis has just gone to be sand-blasted and was quoted AU$250-500 and I told him, that after my under car scraping, it is well worth WHATEVER the cost.

Quote:

Peter,

Thanks for the info, but 2 questions. After Noel left Wade and I were discussing the steering crank and bolt and were somewhat perplexed in it's operation. Does the bush rotate within the crank? You seem to be indicating it does, and if so it answers our question. The other question being, for my mechanical education, what is a "Belville spring"?

EDIT

Peter,

Belay that first question, after I posted the above saw an email from Wade saying "Just had a look on your site at the picture of the kit set that is coming. Indeed, the bushing that is still in your arm is supposed to turn in there. If you look at the picture you will see a grease groove around the outside of the new bushing. So that explains how the bolt can be bolted down tight and the arm will still turn. Just thought I would let you know and we will remove the old bush when I get back." However the second question stands as I display my ignorance to the world.

G'day Mal, The Belville spring is the "special" spring washer which appears to be included in your kit. It appears to be the one with the relieved corners above your split pin, in your IPB of the new bushing kit. I am sure that I have seen it mentioned in Packard technical descriptions as a Belville spring/washer, it is a cup shaped spring steel washer. I may of course be incorrect as I have been in the past, so let's just call it a "special" spring washer until I validate my source. Best regards Peter

Wednesday 4th June 2008

Only had a few hours at the workshop this morning and spent my time cleaning down the firewall then jacking up the engine to give a little more clearance to finish cleaning the front cross member. After that it was Marine Cleaning of both areas and drying with compressed air.

After this it was off to 1) Local Holden(GM) dealer at Ryde for "Packard Green" engine paint, and 2) JJ Smiths at St Peters to have the radiator checked and repaired, both recommended by Wade. Well the first stop was wasted because there's a sign on the door of the parts department saying something like "From 1st May 2008 refer all enquiries to St Leonards", St Leonards being about 10 miles North East. So after that disappointment continued south to JJ Smiths and there Dave, when told I was sent by Wade with the Packards was most receptive, telling a few yarns of customer's radiator/cooling mishaps, before I left the '41's radiator in his capable hands. This is the same guy who repaired Wade's Super 8 radiator and he expects mine could be ready about the middle of next week. On my return trip home however I took a different route and ended up on Parramatta Road at Petersham, where I realised there's a Holden dealer just down the road at Ashfield. However drew a blank there as they don't do paint in their parts department but did advise that the Holden dealer at Homebush further along my direction of travel did. This time struck paint, not oil, but with the price charged including hardner, of AU$209 about US$200, it was certainly pricey.

Attach file:

---

  (27.27 KB)


  (38.49 KB)