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Well, I got started on a good cleaning and polishing. At least the polishing will offer a bit more protection while I’m working on it and keep it from further decay. I’m not sure it this constitutes the official start of the restoration, but for me, I think it does. I still need to polish the doors and rear fenders while I’m waiting for my new jack stands to arrive.

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Okay…. Once my jack stands arrive, I’ll be tackling the brakes. In the meantime, I’ve undertaken getting the car cleaned up and getting the garage organized.

I decided I’d try to work on something “easy” while I waited for the jack stands. In the time my dad had the car (1960) he never had the sidemount brackets and locks. Thanks to Flackmaster, I am now in possession of those.

Now, that “easy” part….anyone have tips on freeing up the rod that goes to the brackets? They haven’t moved since at least 1960 and don’t want to budge.

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Penetrator.....let soak.

or ATF/Acetone, but be careful with the paint.

May jack stands showed up today. Now, to get started on the brakes….right after I get the hubs off. I need a bigger hammer. I’ll get that tomorrow.

Right now, I have to go mow the lawn.

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I would not use a puller on the front hub/drums. If the drums are stuck to the shoes, or if the shoes are adjusted fairly tight, the drums may hang up on the shoes.

The solution is to back off the brake shoe adjustment all the way, which should allow the drum/hubs to come off without risking any damage to the hardware, shoes, or drums.

On the rear, the same situation can occur. The same solution applies, except that you will most probably need a puller of the correct type to get the druum/hubs off the axles.

It's a good idea to back off the brake adjusters at each wheel and make sure that the drums turn freely before attempting to remove the hub/drum assemblies, front or rear, and especially the rear.

Also make sure the parking brake is fully released before attempting to pull the rear drum/hubs.

With any luck, you won't have stuck wheel cylinder pistons.

Agreed. No puller is needed on the front. Once the axle nut is removed it should pull off. If not, you need use the brake spoon on the adjusted wheel on contract the brake shoes.

Thanks, guys! I was going off what my Dad had told me he had to do when he had gotten the car running again in 2004 (it sat again since then).

I hadn’t done much as I was just setting up and then going to do more research. Glad I didn’t get in a hurry. I think your help will prevent a lot of difficulty and possibly damage.

I’m sure I’ll soon become that annoying guy asking LOTS of questions.

I’ll be making my first trip to Hershey this year. I’d like to meet as many folks from this group as possible. Let me know if you’ll be there.

Well the front drums really were easy once I knew the right process. Thanks again. I likely misunderstood my dad when he was talking about the drum puller. I’m sure now, that he was talking only about the rear.

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Good job. They don't look too bad at all.

I'll see you at Hershey!