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SC Vol. 25, No. 10, p. 40

Thank you all for the help. I'll check the run out when i get the tranny back. I've done it on stick shift cars to make sure the shaft and pilot bushing line up, but i never thought to check it on an auto!

Thanks for the warnings and the reassurance that the NOS DD disc will last for quite awhile. I have the new kanter rebuild kit and am waiting on replacement low/reverse bands (mine just went out today).

When i'm down at the transmission shop to drop those off, i'll stop in and get the bushings i need from the kit i left there with him and get this converter back together.

After seeing how wore out the whole tranny was, i am amazed it drove near as well as it did!

Here's the url of checking the run-out on my torque convertor. Thank Dan Kanter via Dave Czirr for this suggestion.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=5798#forumpost5798

Randy, thanks for the shot and the post, should make it easy.

I yanked my engine and tranny out as one, removed the flex plate bolts, then removed the bellhousing bolts so hopefully my flexplate is solid and there's no runout.

Got a call from the Tranny shop today. They said the reactor clutch housing and everything went together fine but that i did indeed have the thinwall bushings. I had printed him the exploded diagram and the article 56executive posted and he asked if i could get the part numbered kit discussed. I told him no and that he'd have to bore it out, and he said no problem. He also said that since we were boring out the existing housing, that the clutch piston rings wouldn't need updated or changed.

Thank you all for the info, without it i would not have been able to answer his questions at all! My car was built in January of 50 (She has her 61st birthday coming up!) so i'm assuming it happened to be in the middle of these changes to need the high range clutch housing worked on but not the reactor clutch housing.

If you all remember, i mentioned my linkage on the passenger side (TV linkage) was bent up. I've since found that some of it has been "massaged" before i got the car, i seemed to have finished it. I've reinstalled best i can, and i'd like anyone with info to chime in. Sorry for the blurryness.

Is this the correct linkage installation? Especially the part about the swivel position (in pic 2).

Since my linkage dimensions aren't correct, can we pretend this setup is in a hotrod with some crazy carb and you can't do what the manual says to adjust it. How would we go about it?

I'm assuming you would set the idle on the car, and then move to the back of the linkage and turn that pin the correct way (which way?) and tighten down the bolt.

How would you know if you had it wrong? Shifts too soon or too late?

Because this was a one year only linkage setup, i can't get replacements and will kind of have to "feel" my way around this one.

Thanks again for all the help everyone, i know it's annoying to read about every little issue on a project. With any luck, she'll be test driving later this week when the radiator comes back!

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If the 50 is the same as the 51, i see that the arm is supposed to be up over the governor, not down. Can anyone confirm if this is different for 50 vs 51? It looked like the tranny mount would be in the way if it was up.

I don't believe the 50 is adjusted quite the same as 51 because you have the second or extra rod link and relay bellcrank at front of trans. I don't know what the specs are because all the documentation just says attach gauge such and such.

51 on doesn't have that bellcrank and uses a single rod all the way from head to throttle lever. Ross will probably have to give you whatever info he can on what you should see or have.

I would assume (but i'd love Ross's input) that if you took the bellcrank in the bellhousing out of the equation, and made one piece to bypass it, that you'd have to flip the lever over on the end of the tranny rod to make sure that rod turned the same direction when you hit the gas in each setup. (See masterpiece of art diagram.)

IF that's the case (that the TV pin turns the same way on both setups when you hit the gas), and my setup is mocked up correctly, i think i found what i needed from another post of Ross's, and i think it's as close as you can get with bent linkage:



"Here's the deal for quick and dirty Ultra-happiness: Put the throttle linkage in roughly the right orientation, but leave the clamp screw loose on that little arm. Poke your choke open with your finger and let the throttle linkage snap back to a slow idle position (no need to run the engine) Set the length of your throttle pull rod so that the end is close to 2 3/4 inches above the surface of the head (fig 89, p 26) A piece of square cardboard with a pencil mark on the edge works just fine. Now get under the car and lightly turn the shaft that little lever is on CCW til it stops. Bring it CW just a tiny skosh, a couple of degrees, and then tighten the clamp bolt. Done. A right angle screwdriver is a really big help for this."

If this applies (and it might not because the 2 3/4 dimension might not work on my 50) then it shouldn't be terrible to get close, and i'm assuming any problems with the setup would be apparent.

Comments? I could be way wrong.

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If I am reading them correctly, in the drawings you provided, they will not move the throttle piston in the same direction. Even though the pivot arm is moving the same rotation, they will move the internal valve in the transmission in opposite directions. Not sure if that is what you are asking or if I'm explaining it correctly. Imagine what happens on the opposite side of the pivot arm.