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Re: Ken
Home away from home
Home away from home

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Found a shop who can flow test the radiator, so I pulled that out Friday night. It was quite a bit easier than I thought it would be!

1. Drain coolant.
2. Remove hood, and hood support rods. You may have to flex them a little to pull them with the front clip bolted up. Watch the paint!
3. Remove upper radiator hose and thermostat housing.
4. Remove fan, water pump pulley, belt, and water pump.
5. Remove large nut from underside of car, remove 6 small bolts holding radiator to radiator frame.
6. Grasp the radiator upper tank, angle the top back, and pull up.

I used some moving blankets to cover the fenders and grill. I think I had less than an hour in the job, but I've also had the water pump off and on several times in the last year, so I'm getting pretty proficient.

I also pulled the water distribution tube again. Still clean, but there was some sort of warning label in the very last hole! The tube was checked clean about 8 months ago, so not sure where this label came from. Wonder what else is flowing around in my cooling system???

While I have the radiator out, I'm going to make an adaptor that will let me hook up a hose at the rear block drain and the heater hose connection, and back flush the block out of the thermostat housing and the block. I'll flush through each outlet individually, then both together. I may run some more evaporust through just the engine as well, depending on how long the radiator shop takes, and what a visual inspection reveals. I bought a small camera, so I'm going to try and inspect the block via the water distribution path.

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Posted on: 5/24 8:21
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Ken
Just popping in
Just popping in

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First a comment and then some questions as a new member to the forum.

Comment: Your two '37's in the garage, I like that picture. I have a 1937 115C, it has the "Six" emblem on the trunk lid, I see some with it and some without. It seems yours has it---maybe it was an option back in 1937??

I am updating the doors, I would appreciated anyone commenting on the following:
NOTE: I have some new rubber parts from Steele
-Is it advisable to remove the front door? (seems prudent to get at the door seal on the front face of the door) Someone had glued a seal on, where it seems the factory intent is to use the welded on channel with no glue--right? With unique seal type across the bottom and another one piece covering the other 3 sides??
-I have a new vent seal---no issue so far
-The rear glass run is rigid and straight from upper rear corner to the lower end down inside the door near the latch, right?
-The front glass run behind the vent window is also straight and rigid from the top of vent window down inside the door, right?
-The seal at the top of the glass is what? It seems to have none--is that the factory intent? If there is a seal , is it glued in??
-The horizontal seal along the bottom of the glass opening is what? It seems like it might be accomplished by the seal that holds the bottom edge of the glass in to the channel on the window regulator, true>? Someone on this forum suggested black silicone as a modern day solution??

Any comments appreciated!

(1937 115C 1082 Touring Sedan, good paint, very low rust, needs to glass and seals)

Posted on: 8/7 11:24
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