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Yes, I had a momentary brain failure, thinking if I short the governor it activates the solenoid. Of course that works when the solenoid is hooked up.

I was trying to eliminate as much of the system as possible and determine if I have a mechanical issue.

I think I need to wire 3 and 4 together and take a tap switch (I have one I used to use to tap my Chevy starter so I could adjust the solid lifters, I think it should be heavy enough)from coil and #3 and #4 tied together and perform my test. This should eliminate everything except the solenoid and the OD itself. I still would not actually complete the OD shift as the noise I am trying to track down stops upon the shift being made.

I actually have the Bosch relay mentioned in the FAQ, for use in installing my plymouth OD (BW R10), but that is a four terminal relay. I see in the post war forum that this was used on an R11, but actual wiring sequence is not shown. Can it also be incorporated into an R9 and be functionally correct? Is there a wiring diagram for that? I don't know which terminals on the Bosch relay would correspond to the Packard terminals. But if it can be correctly wired in, I could use that as a substitute relay and test that portion of the system.

Phils38cpe - Thank you for the suggestion. I am not sure I got 100% of where your wires are going. I think dist to toggle then to relay (power in), a second wire from interrupt on toggle to ground on relay, a third from relay (power out) to terminals 3 and 4 of the solenoid? It does seem like a good way to test around the relay. If I have this wrong (which is likely because I really don't get how relays work) could you send along a diagram?

Thanks very much, this is so much more fun now that I am off the jack stands.

Even easier-- Gov to toggle - toggle to relay
Put the ign interrupt on a simple momentary push button (dis to grnd)

Here is a crude diagram of the way I understand Phils38 setup using the Bosch relay shown but with your solenoid. Sorry, but I don't have the nice software Kev uses when he draws schematics.

If yours is same type relay but has only 4 terminals, probably does not have term 87A. Would be a good idea to use a fuse in the Bat supply just in case, but otherwise just control the coil with switch and the contacts will operate the solenoid.

Hook it up using an ordinary toggle switch and you can control solenoid in car. Just for testing the buzzing you do not need the momentary on switch or the part to distributor for ground out.

With your R9 wiring, you will not be able to use this as a permanent setup or the R11 type relay without doing some changes in the ground out circuit and a different kickdown switch if you wanted to keep that function as is. Also unknown is if the R9 solenoid hold coil needs the resistance of the second relay coil in series to prevent over heating.

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Like this one?

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This is really a great help. I think I will try this approach for testing my relay over the weekend. I actually like everything to work as it was designed, so if this solves the issue, I will get the correct stock parts for a permanent fix.
Phils38cpe - thank you for adding your knowledge to this project.
HH56 - Thank you for taking the time to diagram this out, it does make it a lot clearer. And for your continuing interest.
BigKev - Ditto on the diagram and for providing us all so many great sources of data.
As I said before, this forum is a fantastic resource and really elevates the enjoyment I get out of my Packard.