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TIMING MARKS MISSING FROM DAMPER

Most likely they're there. Perhaps painted over or rusty.

Use sand paper or a scraper to locate and clean up, white paint to mark 0, 5, 10 degrees. Use a timing light.

I think i found zero, but i went over it well when i had it off and had no luck, cleaned and scrubbed and didn't find anything. I have some timing tape on there that's off slightly, but i did the math and it'd be off 1 or 2 degrees... i used it to get me close when i put it back together. But i still couldn't be sure that it's 100 percent right.

You can definitely feel when the timing is off on this motor, vs say my 71 V8. It manifests itself under load or when starting right away.

Bring #1 piston to just a little before TDC. Connect a clear 1/8 tube to the spark plug hole. put other end of tube in some 10W 30.

Rotate crank just a little past TDC sucking some oil into tube. Rotaate crank forward and back and forth around the TDC of the piston watching the oil in the tube.

At a point to which the oil is not rising nor dropping in the tube is TDC.

Mark the pulley. THis method is VERY accurate. I've used it several times.

Let me ask, what makes one think that the original timing specification is the optimum one for today? Fuel is certainly different, compression ratio may be different (head milled?), etc.

Best way is still the old-time mechanic's way - by ear. Put in the grade of gasoline you intend to routinely use, get the car warm, open the windows and maybe put a passenger in the front seat, and drive up a reasonably steep grade in high gear (or direct drive clutch engaged) with heavy throttle. Listen for pre-ignition. Advance/retard as necessary until you have just the lightest hint of ping. If the starter motor balks on a hot restart, then retard slightly. Then put a timing light on it and see where you are and note that for future reference.

Sure. I agree with the old way too. But it's nice to have the mark for TDC for other diagnostics and static setting of distributor if has been remvoved.

Re-gapped the plugs (most were at .035) and gapped the points again. Took my time and set them at .018. Had to bump the idle up slightly, didn't touch the timing yet. Fires right up, drove great, got up to 70mph with no missing, no issues. Puked some coolant out while idling in a parking lot, but i had it filled to the brim, i think it was finding it's level spot. Idled in the parking lot for about 5 minutes and it got 3/4 to the warm side of the gauge, but cooled right down after starting off. Not 100% sure the timing is optimal yet, but i'm going to try to start it after it's been heat soaked for a few minutes to see if it has any hot start issues or if the timing is too far advanced already.

Thanks everyone for all the help, it seems the ignition issues should be behind me. Now i have to clean and wax it! And find some radials...i was all over the road today!

Glad u got it running. If it gives any more points problems then be sure to check that upper distributor bushing as per Fred Kanters instruction above. Otherwise, if it ain't broke don;t fix it.

My 56 Exec has just standard tire store production radials. It has some hunt to it in cross wind conditions otherwise in no wind conditions streight as an arrow and i can even let go of the steering wheel at 70 mph and it tracks streight as an arrow..

Even after installing production replacement radials u mite have to set the caster + insted of spec - for speeds above 40 or 50. Mine has been set + but it needs some finer tuning as i did a Q&D job of it last time.

Here she is at the wife's baby shower just back from detailing and sporting new wide white diamond back radials.

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Beautiful!! Especialy since i like green. Is the interior green too???

Interior is a mix of dark brown and like a creme color, it seems to go well with the green, although i think some sort of tan or something as an exterior color would go better.

They weren't lying when they said the radials would make a huge difference! Seems to ride and drive like a slower mid 80's car now!

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