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Believe the long manifold stud is #330779. The block is listed under gr 5.0500 cylinder and piston assy. Stud is utility item 50.090. The 330779 is not in the 40 parts book utility section but is listed in later utility sections as a stud having threads of 3/8-16 on one end and 3/8-24 on the other. It is 4 9/16 long. The 40 utility has a number of 330770 which I think may be a typo and is really the 330779. The only difference to the later specs is that 770 stud has a length of 1/32 inch longer.

Thanks a million.

For the stud nuts, brass was listed up until 1946 then steel, part #433310 from 1948 to 1954 so either could be used.

I believe that the number 330770 listed in the Utility parts section of the 1935 to 1941 list is a typo as the stud is listed as 330779 in all of the parts books up to 1954.

Thanks for the clarifications.

My online search turned up zero available.
Kanter, Max Merritt, Egge, McMaster-Carr, Gainger, Ace Hardware's supplier (I had them call because they carry 3-1/" 3/8 16-24, but not 4-1/2" but their supplier said nada).

Looks like it must be a used one. SeattlePackard doesn't have or John Ulrich, so moving east with an inquiry to Flackmaster. Scratch the flackmaster on manifold studs.

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Why not just buy some appropriate diameter drill rod and thread it yourself? If you don't already have them, the dies would be a good addition to your tool box

Someone gave me the idea that I might not be able to do that with hardened steel. But if I could, I already have those dies.

Doubt you need hardened rod.

I believe, or would like to believe you, Dave, but I'd like a second opinion because I thought exhaust manifolds need hardened studs.

We just put an exhaust system on the Jag, but the new system had a fatter flange and thicker ring seal and we had to find longer hardened studs to get the dual exhaust on. Not easy.

Are any of the studs on a Packard engine hardened, black oxide, Grade 8?

In the parts manual is there a designation indicating the item is hardened steel?

I don't think it would be easy to thread a grade 8 but one option would be to pick up a grade 5 bolt at the hardware store. Most decent stores carry 3/8-16 thread grade 5 bolts in lengths around 4 1/2 -5" Cut the head off leaving the rest the proper length and thread the new end to 3/8-24.

If they used brass nuts I highly doubt the stud would be anything approaching grade 8 -- at least not for the strength purpose.

Sounds like a plan, Howard. Thank you again. Dave, too.

EDIT: Got a call from JD at Max Merritt. They have the long ones and are sending 2.