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Kev, I've been married long enough to agree with you giving credence to your wife's vote, but those fenders look amazing. Really changes the look of the car. I also like the way the look continues to the rear of the car with the modifications to the rear fenders.

I also like the 45 cut in tail pipe angled to the passenger side - just ties together the custom/fast look.

Nice work on the trunk - I'm impressed with and jealous of your speed on the project!

The twin tail pipe is cut 45 on each side. I guess it's supposed to mimic a Duesenberg tailpipe.

I was looking through the Packard Body Manual for the '35-'37 110 and 120 cars yesterday.

It has instructions for lowering the top on the convertible coupe and sedan. (Looks complicated)

The manual does mention a top boot for both the coupe and the sedan.

I climbed under the car to grind away the surface scale from the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank covers. That old original metal is pitted an had some small holes here and there so no sense it trying to remove all the rust down to shiny metal as it doesn't exist.

So once all the surface rust was removed, it was wiped down with some thinner to remove any grease and oil, and then I applied some rust converter.

Also since it has been a few days now, I could paint the inside of the trunk where I had put down the rust converter previously. Eventually, the trunk floor will need to get replaced, but that going to be way down the road.

I also have the gas tank a new coat of paint and painted the filler tube.

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Got the a coat of paint on the underside of the trunk floor (no picture).

Also got the braided battery ground strap installed.

Reworked some of the routing of the battery cable up.to thr solenoid to take advantage of the holes in the frame so I could use some vinyl coated clamps to secure it.

Also anywhere the cable passed over a metal edge, I slipper a piece of heater hose over it to give some abrasion protection.

Finally I got the fuel sender floats replaced and got the sender back togther into the tank. I had to make a new gasket as the old was kaput.

Using one of the sender bolts, I added a "hard" ground wire.

Also tapping my cache of rubber parts, I put a terminal boot on the sender wire/terminal.

Going to let that floor paint cure overnight then I'll get the tank back in.

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Tank back in the car. Added 5 gals of fuel and went for a drive. Guage is reading a bit low, but perhaps since it was a dead empty tank in needs a few more gallons to read a bit more in range.

My wife took the car for a test drive.

Even with an unpressurised cooling system, on a nearly 90f day, it didn't get over 180f on the Packard dash gauge.

My wife is still getting use to the clutch on the car. Still a bit of a bunny hop from a dead stop in first.

Some of that could be the carbs where it goes from no throttle to full pretty quickly.

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I imagine the chick-chick-chick from the speedometer means it needs to be pulled. Now I wonder if I can lube it without taking it back out?!

You might find that you can undo the speedometer cable at the dash and pull the core out. Clean it with a green kitchen scrubby and then white grease it and slide it back down the tube. I know one end is 'collared' and that stops it from pulling that direction, so it might be you have to pull it from the tranny end, or by undoing both ends you can determine best way to pull, then when you put the core shaft back in it will be easier to engage the head to each drive. Either way you can pull the core while leaving the tube in place. You may want to spray some 10W40 type oil down the tube to help clean out the tube as well. With both ends open you can gauge when it has drained out.
Bob J.

I think it's the speedo itself making the noise, not the cable.

This speedo came from another car and hadn't been used in a long time. I just forgot to give it any lube before installing it.

It could be the rotor bearing needs lube, or it could be the odometer drive, or it could be friction in the cable, which can make the core "wind up", then release, making the noise and making the speedo jump. Long shot: A bad tooth on the drive gear at the transmission. Best bet is everything needs lube.