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Removed the front engine support that was obviously sacked because the water pump bolts were just on the verge of resting on the top of the support. What I was surprised to find was the water pump at some point in the life of the car had leaked and drizzled into the engine mount isolators and made things quite crusty. No real harm done, a bit of work with the wire brush will solve that issue.

Next was removing the block drain, draining the block. Big surprise was discovering the block drain plug was quite loose. Next was removing the starter, and oil fill tube to facilitate removing the soft plugs. One of the things that prompted me to initiate this project is to ensure the car is ready for our Packard Info. Fun Run in November. While at a cruise in the other night, I noticed two soft plugs had the infamous dark bubble spots with some raised paint in a couple corners. Before removing, I poked at them with dentil picks. With no real pressure they instantly broke through. Wow! That was just in the nick of time.

Knowing the soft plugs had decayed that far, I was really concerned that the block would be in tough shape. After wrestling with removing the soft plugs, I discovered the interior of the block actually looked pretty good. The water pump was removed and the water distribution slid right out by literally using an index finger and pulling. After a liberal flushing, everything looks just fine.

This car continues to be such a treat to work on. It feels like a pleasant surprise every time something comes apart and looks better than expected. In most other old car pursuits, this is typically not my luck. I will continue to work in the evenings during the week blasting, prepping, painting, and installing sundry parts and pieces. Will also research proper finishes on various assemblies.

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Looking good! One thing you'll feel once you get it all back together, is much more confidence in taking it across country.

One mistake I made (besides for not removing the front wheels) is not rebuilding the fuel pump while it was sitting right there in front of me. It looked like brand new, so I decided to forget it. It's not the easiest thing to remove once you have the front clip and splash pans back on. If it has not been overhauled/rebuilt sometime in the last 5 years, it would be a GOOD IDEA to do it. The replacement rubber material on the inside older than 5 years is questionable to withstand the new gas. Make sure you get your rebuild kit from the "source", as many times second-tier suppliers have had their kits on the shelf for more than 5 years. I highly recommend "Now and Then". Absolutely fabulous customer support via phone and e-mail.

Now is the time to also check (look carefully) your center steering link. This is often frozen because of lack of lubrication (non-Packard-trained mechanics weren't made aware of the zerk fitting there). You will be very relieved to have made sure this is in good working order, because the radiator needs to be out of the car in order to fix it.

West, great advice about checking it out now, single largest cause of sloppy steering and kind of rare to find one that doesn't need attention. They didn't all have a zerk fitting, some were just "lubed for life". I've been involved in changing two of them, we didn't have to remove the radiator but did make a small tackweld at the upper end to facilitate removal, and then break it loose later. Not what I'd call a fun job - took about 4 hours to change it. Parts were from the Flackmaster.

West & Dave, good advice on both accounts. I did the fuel pump in November, inspected and lubed the center link when I replaced the inner tie rod ends around the same time. It was in surprisingly good condition with minimum free play and smooth operation.

Put about 4 hours in on the front engine mount project this evening. Started with degreasing and blasting the engine mount support, plate, and fasteners. As I stripped the support stay I looked very carefully for and signs of Packard Green. I only found remains of black on various parts of the bracket and never even a faint hint of green. I always thought the front support was engine color, but from the looks of this one, I might have thought so in error.

From there, on to prepping the front of the engine and painting. One advantage to Phoenix in May is quick dry time! The isolator bushings pictured are actually made of polyurethane and supplied by Gary Osko. Given the reputation these isolators have for smashing down and the sever load they carry, this seems like a no brainier! They are priced very reasonable also.

Once dry, everything was reassembled and the engine once again resting in it's cradle. Not bad for an evening after work. Tomorrow night, it's on to removing the manifolds. Should make for an interesting evening.

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Don't forget to replace the timing marks on your harmonic balancer. It's easier to do it now than to try and do it after it's all put back together.
Good work. Brings back a lot of memories.

Though this factory picture of the 22nd series clearly shows the front engine support bracket was not black and apparently engine color (gray), I must say that all the prewar senior ones I've seen on cars that I took to be unmolested were black. Don't know for certain but if it were mine, I'd do it black. Photo from MSU's MMM collection (cropped).

Same photo also answers the frequent question about the color of the oil filler tube, though remember this is a 22nd series photo so it doesn't necessarily apply to every year and model. Some other interesting details in this picture, for example the long, sweeping curve of the carburtor fuel inlet line. And the connection point for the battery ground cable at the forward generator bracket bolt.

Good move on the urethane engine support cushions!

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There's a nice full-page prewar assembly line photo in Chapter 21 of Kimes' Packard book that clearly shows the bracket painted the same color as the engine, as well as the oil filler tube.
The generator bracket is also painted the same color as the engine.
Both manifolds are clearly black. Not grey, or green.

Yes, the front motor mount biscuits do deform and cause the motor to sag, but that's usually after 40 yrs/ 60,000 miles.
The positive about using urethane is that your great great grandchildren will not have to replace them again, but you will be sacrificing some of that legendary Packard smoothness with the higher durometer urethane.