Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I was hoping to avoid the approach you suggested, but drilling out one of the spot welds and assembling the bushing and bracket on the bar is the way to go. Drats!

In response to the question about the electrical switch on the transmission.
Go to Packard Literature and Manuals.
Then Go to Service, Shop & Training Manuals
Select 1955 - 56 Service manual.
Go to the VIII Electrical section.
Figure 101 shows the orange wire coming from terminal F on the Auto Park Relay going to the pressure switch.
It shows an orange wire coming from the pressure switch to the PNR buss.
From inside you should be able to see an orange wire leaving the steering column and going to an ivory-colored multi-wire plug. Following that plug under the hood you should be able to follow the orange wire. It SHOULD be going to the pressure switch. I believe someone has routed it to the F terminal on the Park Relay.
Test the switch for continuity. You will need to replace it if it does not have continuity. You can then connect the orange wires as they should be. Several Packard vendors carry that switch.
I know - I'm long-winded.

Thank You Sir! I should be able to try this in the morning.

Quote:

The factory wiring diagram for the electric shift is in the service manual and also on page 15 in service counselor Vol29#13https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO13.pdf Those are early diagrams and while it is accurate for some early cars, most had the control relay removed either in later production or after delivery at dealerships. The pressure switch is barely seen at the bottom of the illustration between the starter motor and pushbuttons. Here is a later drawing by Autolite, the manufacturer of the unit. I've noted the pressure switch in the red circle. There is a comprehensive troubleshooting and operation manual available for the electric shift on sitehttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/AutoLite_ServiceManual.pdf

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hap -

I'm not that familiar with your car, as presently equipped, but I'm also not sure how familiar you are with the wiring diagrams.

As intended by the factory, that pressure switch interrupted the power feed to the PNR buss in the column-mounted push button control switch assembly (at ~8MPH), but WHERE that wire picks up its feed seems to depend on whether or not your car still has the automatic park feature functioning.

As originally produced (see SC Vol. 29, No. 12, p. 62), the power feed to the pressure switch came from the #2 terminal of the transmission control relay.

However, it was soon discovered that auto park relay made the control relay redundant (see SC Vol. 30, No. 1, p. 2), and the control relay was removed from production, with that orange feed wire rerouted to the 'F' terminal on the auto park relay.

Months later, after production ended, a confidential bulletin was issued to Zone offices, regarding elimination of the automatic park function (see STB 56T-25), with instructions for removal of that relay. That orange wire was then spliced to the red/white wire and a new inline fuse holder; the other end of the fuse fed by a white wire that came from the front vehicle wiring harness and was formerly connected to the 'F' terminal.

Yet, in all cases, that orange wire went into a separate 'sector harness', down through the branch that runs to the transmission actuator, and out and over to one of two terminals on the pressure switch.

Another orange wire came off the other terminal of the pressure switch and ran back into that same branch of the sector harness, up to another branch in that same harness that goes through the firewall and leads to the steering column. That orange wire ultimately connects to the PNR buss bar.

Hope this helps.

That switch, locks out park and reverse, randy can tell exactly,

After 5 mph, I taped my together, and did just that. with push button,

at the time could not find a switch, its going in this time..

Here are some pictures related to my sway bar experience on my 1955 400. Been some time ago BUT the welds were broken (I couldn't get the bushings into the designated spot any other way) and the two pieces were drilled out and then installed as seen. There was much use of colorful language IIRC too. Good luck.

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Nice Kevin,

But I am thinking Jig, two piece, pour durathane in place. to keep original.

The bolt way is faster...and replace able..

thanks, I need to do it too..

Riki.............I'd like to see that! I didn't have anything near that kind of skill sets to do as you propose. Keep me posted. Good luck!

PS...........it looks much nicer than seen in pictures. Black paint in a rattle can is marvelous to cover all those tool marks and indentations.

Kevin,

I will make a diagram, but easy to make., clamp on each side of bracket, mill the ends to match bracket.

Then make a jig to hold rod in center.

hold the whole sway bar in a vise vertical ,,