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(1) 2 »

Clutch # 3 has been removed
#1
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Tom Still
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We acquired this 55 Deluxe 4 door, 3speed OD, about 10 years ago. The original problem was a spinning driveshaft on a parked car. The third member was replaced with one from an Ultramatic and the car was a very nice freeway driver. The original clutch survived about two months and started slipping. The replacement was original equipment and lasted less than a year. The next one was "Heavy Duty" and survived about a year and a half. I have always suspected that the higher ratio imposed a heaver load on the clutch and increased slippage. In both cases, I duplicated the original specs. As I recall, the first and second set was 10" disk and 10" pressure plate. I have always assumed the "Heavy Duty" set was the same with heavier springs. I was a bit surprised, today, when I saw a half inch unused band on the pressure plate. What I removed was a 10" disk under an 11" plate. I don't know how I missed that the last time. I recall, years ago, hearing or reading that the small V8's used a 10" clutch and the 352's used an 11". It never occurred to me that the bolt circle was the same. I'm off to find an 11" set with heavy springs. How much difference will that extra 16.5sq" make? While the trans is out I'm replacing the seals. Anyone know what the current replacements are? Also the rubber shift fork couplers are a bit tired; I'm considering cutting new ones, any suggestions as to the best material?
I will report progress, Tom

Posted on: 2013/8/19 20:33
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#2
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Randy Berger
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What is a "third member"?? Did you install a 3.54 rear end?

Posted on: 2013/8/19 23:00
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#3
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Tom Still
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I was wondering if "Third member" was still relevant. It's a term I've used for years for differential. I changed it out about 10 years ago and I don't recall the exact ratios. The one I removed was around 3.90 and 3.54 sounds right for the replacement. At an indicated 65, the car is approaching 80. I'm not concerned about the speedometer error and I like the extra gas millage. Tomorrows shopping list is; 11" clutch kit with heavy springs, front and rear trans seals, rear U-joint and trans juice. Installing is going to be fun. Tom

Posted on: 2013/8/20 0:13
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#4
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Guscha
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Randy, have your dictionary of etymology always ready please. The special term "third member" is borrowed from the terminology of motor vehicle mechanics, field "chassis", subgroup "rear axle". The axle shafts are the first two members ...



Did you know that you are the twenty-third member of PackardInfo?

Posted on: 2013/8/20 0:41
The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#5
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Randy Berger
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Well, it just proves you are never too old to learn something. I had never heard that term before. Not that I'm any smarter, just have more useless knowledge.
I converted a 52 to stick w/OD and the car was a dog with the 3.54 ratio. I had to install the 4.10 rear end to satisfactorily drive the car here in the western Pennsylvania hills.
Guscha, shhh, there are enough folks who know I'm old!

Posted on: 2013/8/20 7:52
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#6
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Jack Vines
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Based upon experience, while you have the clutch out, remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced. That will make a major difference in clutch life.

jack vines

Posted on: 2013/8/20 10:03
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#7
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Tom Still
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Now comes the fun part with a question

Tomorrow I collect the pieces and reassemble the clutch. A trip to my local parts place, years in the same location, now Carquest, revealed that the U-joints are 50's - 60's Chevy at $12.00 ea. A note on the throw out bearing; it was replaced on the first go around. The original came out in pieces and no convenient replacement was available. A Toyota bearing with two mounting flanges had the same general dimensions but didn't have the perpendicular locating dogs. A couple of chunks of ?" plate and a welder solved it. It's been working fine since. Now the question; I've been running 90w gear lube in older sticks for years, now the world of synthetics seems to have taken over. Would any of them improve or hurt the O/D considering the sprag clutch? I'm also thinking about 140w with Ca's 112 deg summers. I marked the flywheel and crank so it will go back in the same position. Did Packard balance them as a unit, or is position irrelevant?

I should be driving this weekend, Tom

Posted on: 2013/8/23 0:24
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#8
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Tobs
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Most everywhere I have heard and read that OD's should get 90w GL1 old fashioned gear oil. That is what I got for my 53 with OD.
Some use SAE85W-140 Valvoline High Perf Gear Oil, but I plan on staying with the 'oldfashioned stuff'

Posted on: 2013/8/23 5:49
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1969 912, 1990 Miata, 2009 Ford S-Max.
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#9
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Jack Vines
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Quote:
I marked the flywheel and crank so it will go back in the same position.
AFAIK, the bolt holes will only line up in one position.

Quote:
Did Packard balance them as a unit, or is position irrelevant?

Yes, the assembled engine was given a final balance as a unit.

Did you resurface the flywheel?

jack vines

Posted on: 2013/8/23 14:38
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Re: Clutch # 3 has been removed
#10
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bobp
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Do you by any chance have the brand & part numbers of the clutch, press. plate, & u-joints. It would be handy to have.

Posted on: 2013/8/25 19:56
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