Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi Mark, There's no easy way to deal with that shift linkage. My upper shift arm was really seized onto the shift tube. I don't know if it could have been freed up with everything still mounted in the car. The steering column is quite different from a modern car. The steering shaft that goes all the way up to the steering wheel is part of the steering box, and therefore can't be disconnected from the box. This makes it a pain to get the rest of the column out of the car. The service manual says to unbolt the box from the frame and the column from the dash, then pull the entire assembly out of the car. To me, the hole in the firewall looks awfully small for the box to fit through. It seems like the best way to remove the column is to take off the steering wheel, cut the horn wire, remove the retaining ring and upper bearing, unplug the turn signal wires, loosen the clamp down near the box, unbolt the column from the dash, then slide the column out over the steering shaft. This method will work fine on a convertible, but I have a feeling that the column may hit the roof before it's clear of the shaft on a closed car.

If you have a torch, you may try heating the shift levers while someone in the car moves the linkage, but if you do get it freed up, it's going to be tough to properly lubricate all the parts with everything still assembled.

Some additional benefits of taking everything apart would be that your upper column bearing is probably dry as a bone and due to be cleaned and repacked, plus the contacts on your turn signal switch most likely could use cleaning.

Jeff

Thank you for the info, Jeff. Sounds like a lot of work!

Well, I made some progress with the linkage last night... I think? From the engine compartment side, I can put it in any gear. If I go between 2nd and 3rd, the shifter moves in the car. But not when I go between 1st and reverse. And I can put it in reverse, and shift to first from inside the car - but then I can't shift back into reverse. And if I put it in 2nd or 3rd, I can shift between those two gears from inside the car, but if I shift into first, I can't get it back to 2nd/3rd. So I am thinking the "selector" is still a bit gummed up, and not allowing the selector spring to do its job...does that sound about right?

Quote:
The levers on the shaft or shift tube have to be absolutely free and non binding -- as does the little tongue affair between them.

If you refer to the photos in post 65, when you select a gear that little tongue affair shown between the levers is connected to the inner rod and rides on the splines of the shift tube. It moves the levers connected to linkage going to trans & normally rides inside the top 2-3 lever. Pulling back the gearshift arm moves the tongue into the lower R-1 lever and moves that linkage. The shift tube rotates no matter which gear you want. When the tongue moves one lever, the other lever depends on the detent in trans holding and if all is working normally, will remain still. If a lever is binding on the shift tube it will try to move also and there in could be the problem. Also, if the tongue binds on the splines and doesn't move far enough to clear the 2-3 and completely enter the R-1 lever, it could be trying to move both.

The detent in trans could be another source of the problem. If loose or worn it might not keep the unselected lever from moving and if the interlock pin is damaged, both levers can move at the same time. Both problems were known and subject of a service article.

Sloride75 - You might try disconnecting the shifting rods from the column levers. This way you can try and free-up the lever actions without trying to shift the transmission at the same time. You may luck out with the soak-with-PB-and-work-the-shifter method you are following. It may take a bit of time and effort. I would keep after it this way until it becomes obvious that the column needs to come out of the car. Worth a try.

(o{}o}

Well Gents, I've been playing with the linkages every day this week, and I've used about half a can of PB, and it paid off! I can now shift through all gears! Woot!

That's good news. Now all you have to do is follow up the PB with some thicker oil periodically to give it something that will stay there and hopefully the problems are over.

Thanks Howard! That's the plan! I was thinking about using motorcycle chain lube- I think it may have a bit more "staying power", so to speak.

Well, it's been a while since I've updated this, even though I constantly "lurk" on the forum. I can't get enough of this stuff; the amount of knowledge on this forum is simply fascinating!

Continuing on...Thanksgiving weekend my parents came over from KY, and my Dad and I tinkered on the car a bit. He really appreciated driving the car! Somehow, he's much better at it than I! I'm happy to report that it shifts through all gears nicely.

The next day I pulled it out of the garage again, for a drive of my own (these drives are all through the neighborhood, nothing far or fast), and had issues with it stalling out and whatnot. I realized when Dad drove it, we had it running in the driveway for a quite a while. So I checked my exhaust manifold heat deflector - and the thermostat and counterweight are missing! I've got parts on the way for that, and I'm hoping that will solve some of the inconsistencies in how the motor runs.

The following Friday, Dec 6th, I let the car warm up sufficiently and went on a cruise through the neighborhood for a solid 20 minutes or more. The best part was that my two daughters were with me; the five year old holding my arm the entire way. I determined that around 30mph the front end begins to get squirrely and wobbly, so I didn't exceed that, especially with the girls in the car! As such, I've not yet been able to test out the overdrive. I jacked the car up and determined I have significant play in the upper bushings. Once spring rolls around and money frees up (Santa is expensive!), I'll order the parts to get the suspension and steering up to snuff.

This past Sunday afternoon was very nice, once the sun finally came out. I decided I'd again go for a short cruise. When I started the car, however, fuel POURED from the carb. I thought the float was stuck "down", and I tried tapping the carb body with a screwdriver handle to no avail. I finally pulled the top off the fuel bowl and found the float was nearly full of fuel! Last night I soldered the float up (it took four attempts ) but did not have time to put the carbuetor back together. I hope to have it ready for a lil cruise this Sunday, we'll see.

A few pictures of before, during, and after the float repair. I was very tempted to file off a bit more of the excess solder to minimize the change in weight, but decided I shouldn't press my luck!

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