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Power brake removal
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

smashburn
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Hello. If you don't mind answering one more question for tonight. The master cylinder on my power brake if full of just a grey dust. I'm assuming it is the brake fluid that has dried out. So I have decided to pull the power brake and rebuild it. I have a rebuild kit on hand already. My question is what is the best way of getting this thing out. I've been studying it pretty hard and it doesn't look easy. Anyone have any experience with this? Is this grey dust going to clog up all my brake lines? Thanks for any help.

Posted on: 2015/1/16 17:58
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Re: Power brake removal
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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I assume you're speaking of the Bendix unit used between 1952 and 1956 and not the prewar power unit? If so, removal of the unit is straight-forward and not complicated. Disconnect the hydraulic lines and stop light switch wires if the switch is attached to the master. Remove the cotter pin and pin that attaches the brake pedal to the push rod and tie the brake pedal up and out of the way. Pull up the carpet and remove the bolts or screws of the mounting plate and remove the unit with the mounting plate still attached.

When doing the master, I'd open all the wheel cylinders (rebuild or replace if needed) and flush all the lines first with alcohol and then with brake fluid. Also a good idea to replace the rubber hoses. Also check the steel lines carefully for corrosion or damage, especially where they are held in place by clips which can accumulate mud and water and do unseen damage. When the least doubt exists, replace the steel lines also.

Posted on: 2015/1/16 18:29
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Re: Power brake removal
#3
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HH56
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Best way I've found to avoid standing on my head or crawling into the engine compt is to remove the clevis pin or bolt connecting brake pedal to booster rod. Lift the pedal up and fasten it out of the way. Pull back the carpet and remove 4 bolts holding the booster to the floor or toe plate and then remove the sheet metal screws holding the toe plate to body. Remove the plate and the booster will be exposed. You can reach everything you need to disconnect thru that opening and can then lift the booster out.

If the fluid has turned to dust, chances are the rest of the brake hydraulics are not in that great of shape either. Probably worth a going thru. The Bendix Treadlevac or Easamatic as Packard called it has been a source of a lot of discussion on the website. Some have had the misfortune of the BTV (as it is called here) to be the source of intermittent total failure. By all means it needs a complete and proper rebuild. If there is any question on your skill level to identify any suspect parts it would be good to have it professionally rebuilt.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2015/1/16 18:39
Howard
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Re: Power brake removal
#4
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Fish'n Jim
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If just dust remains, fluid has long since leaked out.
It's a safety system, so as above, a complete system check is necessary not optional.
My opinion: These early booster brakes are problems waiting to happen and not reliable for today's driving. Rebuilding only prolongs the inevitable. But necessary for authenticity, but not for daily driving.

Posted on: 2015/1/17 11:03
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Re: Power brake removal
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

smashburn
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Great information. Thanks everyone!

Posted on: 2015/1/18 10:19
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