Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the IVR for the '56? I've bought and returned 3 NOS and none worked correctly. 12 volts in and 12 volts out.

I had heard that Dodge used something similar and that someone was recreating them.

Thanks
Gene

Am surprised you are having difficulty with the NOS units as they are so simple--just a piece of bi-metal wrapped with a bit of resistance wire--unless for some reason, your gauges and associated senders no longer draw enough current to heat the resistance wire up to start the bi-metals make/break cycle. Are you checking the output voltage in the circuit and seeing a constant 12v or with just a meter alone?

Here are a couple of modern alternatives that maybe could be investigated should you wish.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5V-INSTRUMENT-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-12Volt-to-6V-conversion_W0QQitemZ120310892062QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/ivr/improved_design_solid_state_IVR.htm

I had burned one out by being in too much of a hurry replacing a gauge and not disconnecting the battery. A late 50's Chrysler unt produced the same mean voltage and I used that till I got an original from Mike Dulinski. Perhaps the contacts have oxidized in which case you could carefuly open up the case and gently drawa a points file through the gap. I, like HH56, also think that your checking method might be at fault. This is a very simple mechanism.

Here is what you need from Napa:

Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator - Echlin - ECH IR4

Click Here

Also for your other 12-6 Needs (4amp)

12-6 Regulator - VR-437 (NAPA ECH VR1021)

Click Here

Kev, can you post differently or a different URL. Those under click here results in session expired messages.

Yeah, Napa did some wierd stuff with their website and the links are tied to an browser session now.

So this is how you get there.

1) Go to Napaonline.com
2) Click "PartsProSE Catalog" from the left hand menu
3) That brings you into their master parts catalog.

4a) If it's a non-Napa part number then select the "Interchange" radio button, and then type in the part number in the search field.

4b) If it's a Napa part number then select "Part Number" and then type in the part number in the search field.

This is how I find about 80% of my interchange. As long as you know the original part number (Wagner, Gates, BlueStreak, Raybestos) then it should pull up the Napa version.

Kevin,

I bought the one from NAPA and installed it last weekend. I had to make a bracket and mount it in a more accessible spot. I used the condensor that was on the car but when I reattached the battery, it showed 12v going in but intermittent voltage of about 1 volt coming out.

Any suggestions?

Quote:

I am a little confused by what you mean by that?

If you hook the Voltage regulator right to a 12v source as a test it should show something in the around 5-6volts on the output leg.

If it doesnt, then you may have a bad one.

A little confused about the condenser myself. There usually isn't one so where exactly is this one located. The pulsing is normal as that is how the original units work & assume Napa does too. Depends on the load but a heater bends a metallic contact which opens and closes. Too little load, nothing will heat up so contacts never open and constant 12v. Too much load and things will move quickly to the point of possibly burning out the heater. If memory serves, the pulses should be 2-3 seconds 100-150ms & resultant voltage should be pulses of around 12 V. If less voltage, sure sounds like something is loading the circuit. Are the 2 or 3 gauges and your meter the only things in the circuit? If so, can you disconnect one gauge at a time and see if things improve.

EDIT: Here is a picture of the regulator and the resulting output. My memory failed above as you can see. The pules are 12+v but are only about 100ms in duration every half second. That will vary a bit, and with a slow meter, will never read properly--always low--so that may be why you're seeing the intermittent 1v.

Would have checked on the car, but with the AC, too hard to get to. This example is with 3 gauges connected, with equal resistance to each gauge to simulate approx 1/4 scale. This is an original 55-6 regulator and has to be wired with the center terminal to supply, outer terminal to gauges and the case must be grounded. If case isn't grounded, a straight 12v out. If wired backward, the heater is on constantly and will soon burn out.

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Kevin,

When I looked in the Service Manual on Page 6, Accessories, it shows the capacitor, not condenser as I had mentioned, attached to the Ign side of the IVR. I'll take it off and test it with a lead directly from the battery and see what I get for a reading.

Thanks
Gene