Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Many good carburetor rebuilders around, Daytona Parts in New Smyrna Beach, Florida among the very best.

Although I always rebuild the Packard carburetors myself, I use Ace Automotive & Fuel Systems in Santa Clara, CA for my later model cars' carbs. They do an excellent job and have testing machines to check and set the fuel flow. Soon I may have them do a Packard carburetor too just to save myself some time.

Todd,

I concur with all of the prior first responders on stuck valves conclusion.

Packard acknowledged in the 1930's that running for short periods of time or during storage periods, that moisture (corrosion on valve stems/guides) plus rapid carbon buildup on the same surfaces would cause stuck open valves. Sounds like your chariot had this as a pre-existing condition. This was a common occurrence, to the degree that they issued multiple guidance letters to dealers/mechanics at the time.

Best lowest risk approach is:
1) try the soaking guidance recommended by the other Packardites
2) open the valve cover (recommended by one Packardite) to determine "who isnt moving"
3) If "magic" doesnt happen from the soaking/prayer services, I think the lowest cost/risk approach is to pull the head/valves; fully clean/dress up the guides/stems and seats (not too difficult on a straight 6 or 8)
4) reassemble and drive
5) follow the recommended Packard pre-storage prep/guidance. Trove of valuable service data on this topic in:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/404530136408?fits=Make:Packard&itmmeta=01HR7SZ3PYZY4KBPZC0T0B4RRW&hash=item5e2fe00558:g:zQYAAOSwiKBlHEo
Dan M.

Think I will get the Daytona kit, have used in past times.
Agreed, think will just go ahead and pull the head. Last time pulled the head around ten years ago, cleaned the valves and re seated them. With the first four cylinders stuck soaking will only be, as mentioned, a prayer. Will end up pulling the head anyway.
Just talked with a couple full time garage people and they can assist here and there after their work hours as needed.
What I have not done in the past is to check valve stem clearance. I have the measuring tool, but have not used it. In the coming weeks may need some guidance on making sure proper setting after lapping in the valves, or one or two new valves? Have not used my blueing paint in maybe twenty years.

I'll refer you to my brother (45 years doing Packard engine/undercarriage/restoration mechanic) as he has forgotten more Packard straight 6 & 8 valve jobs and adjustments than I'll ever learn. Private message me with your time zone/locale and an email or cell phone and he can get hold of you directly. He is going through my 37 twelve valve rehab odyssey currently.

Dan M.

Got the head off my 1940 Super. Been over ten years since I have had it off before. The reason I have pulled the head is no compression on a few cylinders. Stuck valves open. Let it sit several months with modern gasoline. I believe the cause for stuck valves is me letting the over flow pipe from the intake manifold clog up, and gasoline pooling in the intake ports and valve stems. It hardened to a very hard glossy substance, see the two photos. Never happened to me before, is this the way of modern gasoline? Thanks

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Second question on this matter, I remember some carbon build up around the cylinders, this time quite a bit, normal? Any way to cut down on carbon build up?
Thanks

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Another question for now, do the metal sides of the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets go toward the block or the manifolds?

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Is it possible your running too rich? Also, do you let it run without letting it warm up completely?

Gasoline would not stick the valves like that unless it was old and run that way, then cooled down. As for the manifold gasket, I always put the metal side toward the hotter manifold but looking at your gasket it appears that your manifolds are past due to being milled as a unit as it has obviously been leaking.