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Thank you Jdee, Joe and O_D.

JDee and Evan,
I'm going to get more basecoat today. I have the can of basecoat I used on the moulding to take which has: Dupont ChromaBase Y(drip)238K SpectraMaster Yellow

On my original instructions, probably from a phone call, I have:
PPG DX330
PPG NCP271 (I believe these are the primer and hardener)

Sand with 320

Dupont ChromaBase Base Coat, House of Kolor SG-100, Slow reducer

3 Coats House of Kolor UFC-35 Clear (the urethane)

Wet sand with 2000 grit
Buff to gloss

So is Y_238K the same as House of Kolor SG100?

One thing I seem to be missing is "blending paper." Not sure how I could have misplaced it, but I'm not sure what it looks like. Is it something common I can find at a paint shop? On my kit list, it says "4 assorted sizes"... do you reuse the blending paper each time?

In the meantime, I'll try looking at the video again.

Joe,

The YS 238K is Going to be fine for your base color.
It is nearly identical to LS 120.

PPG DX330
PPG NCP271 These are the recommended primer and hardener that we have used with very good results.

Dupont ChromaBase Base Coat (This is your YS 238K)
Incidentally Dupont ChromaBase is the only base coat we have found that works well with our Woodgraining process.

House of Kolor SG-100 (this is different from your YS 238K, it is an intercoat clear and its use is optional) JDee can give more advice on the SG100.

Slow reducer (this is the reducer for the YS 238K
the Chroma-Base maker)

3 Coats House of Kolor UFC-35 Clear (the urethane)
Yes, this is the urethane clear coat that we have used with very good results.

Wet sand with 2000 grit
Buff to gloss
Yes, It sounds like you talked with JDee on the painting. JDee is the one to talk to on this as he is the one that is the most knowledgeable among us of this aspect of the woodgraining process and I am sure he will add his two cents worth.


The blending paper is simply 320 wet/dry sand paper.
We reuse it for years.
Remember to lay it rough side down.

Hope this helps, and again the YS 238 will be fine for the base color on the Mottled Aspen Woodgrain.

Evan

Thanks, Evan. I'm getting it straight now. The paint store also filled me in.

They didn't know what blending paper is. I explained. Thought it was some kind of netting, a screen. But now I know and what's better, I HAVE it! (I had it in the kit. I thought it was for sanding the primer.)

When you roll over it, does the design bleed through? Does it just soften the edge? What is the function really? Is there a video that shows "This is what it looks like if you DON'T use 320 sandpaper." "Here's what the edges look like when you do?"

I also got some Meguiars Mirror Glaze Cleaner/Polish, which they recommended for use after sanding the clear urethane with 2000.

Thanks for your help with this.

This is how I clear coat our parts at Grain-It.
Once the woodgrain print is dry or has dried overnight I apply a coat or two of Bulldog adhesion promoter. I don't use SG-100 these days but it should work also if you already have some.
Note : the Ink will most likely not be completely dry, But The bulldog will lock it down and work as a adhesion promoter / tie coat. If using SG-100 you might want to wait till the ink has dried for a few days longer. With bulldog you can work faster.
To test to see if the woodgraining compound is locked down good, degrease with Naphtha or our U-Pol Degreaser after the Bulldog has dried.
If you can degrease and don't wipe off the pattern you should be ready for clear.
Tack rag lightly you don't want your rag to stick to the bulldog by accident if it's still a little tacky, and Then put on a wet coat of clear. I like the first coat wet so the solvents can bite the inks and base coat. We don't really rely on cross linking but depend mainly on a Mechanical adhesion.
Once the first coat has flashed off put down the second coat, once that has flashed put down a Third coat and let dry overnight.
The next day I wet sand "using 500 Grit Wet Dry sand paper " sand out nibs and what looks like dirt but this is ink most of the time. Remember you are not painting over a perfectly flat surface. Once I have the parts sanded I put on two more coats of clear. This should dry overnight, then be sanded with 1500 to 2000 grit wet dry sand paper. Than you can buff up to the gloss that you like.

Most of the time the First Three coats is plenty of clear. It just depends on the look you are after.
I do the extra clear to try and get a real flat finish.. If you are going with just the three coats you won't use 500 grit paper. You will use 1500 to 2000 grit paper than buff.
Hope this Help Jdee

PS: always do a test part..

Joe.
Here are some you-tube videos that show the use of the blending paper. There is also more info on using the blending paper contained in your Woodgraining DVD that came with your tools.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVr39EimYFA&feature=player_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_tLs59WdTo&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVr39EimYFA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Evan

Thanks again. Will watch and pay attention this time. Also looks like I already did my test part.

Joe

I think it is Bill Cosby who says When you hit 50 and enter a room, the first you do is look for a place to sit down.

I can't wait to sit down, especially when all the details at the end of this restoration are complete.

Beaverton Auto Upholstery. Sterling work. The stitiching. The way things line up. The details. Excellent.

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i'm loving this blog

Yes, me too. Like following Forest Gump.

WOODGRAIN. Anyway, last night sanded all the dash and moulding parts, and ashtrays to 1200. Got up early and sprayed them with the Dupont Chromabase. They were dry before I finished walking the dog.

Tonight I set up for woodgraining in the laundry room, one of the last bastions to hold out against Packard parts in the house. Attached are pics of what I finished. The dash itself will have to wait until tomorrow. Then I'll clearcoat it according to JDees method.

Like any artistic endeavor, there's still a lot of tension, but I am developing technique and I should know how to do this about the time I run out of parts to woodgrain. So far so good. The Gain-It video made me want a 1933 Packard, I think it was a 33, just for the FLAT dashboard. And I'm working with the Junior Woodgrainer roller. But I'm happy with the result.

CONVERTIBLE TOP AND CARPET. A 2-door was shipped instead of a 4-door. The Duchess may have to come home Friday topless, so I can install the Quiet Ride padding barriers and the dark taupe wool carpet, which was finished by SMS Fabrics today.

DOORS AND WINDOWS. MS Glass installed the double flap dust seal on the window carrier, so the doors can be put together completely now. Still a question about the crank shafts which I'll need help with.

RUNNINGBOARD. I may have mentioned, but used an orbital sander on my compressor to smooth out the running board rust pits. The holes are original, for the top moulding clips and for the rubber to grip the running board itself (I imagine). So getting close on gluing on the new rubber.

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