Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Where is the cheapest place to get window channel for front doors, cross ref #'s, need them all, and i think i need to figure out how to hold the bottom channel, i think that part broke, cause the window moves back and forth,

thanks,,

looked in parts x ref, nothing there,

I don't know of any x-ref to direct bolt-in replacements in the aftermarket for the run channels.

They appear to have been fabricated from standard industry materials. If you study the details, you may be able make them yourself, with some careful measuring, cutting, drilling, and just a little bending. I haven't yet attempted, but looks like the hardtop doors use rigid, lined run channel front and rear, fastened to other parts with tube rivets. Sedan doors take a different, perhaps easier approach, but rear quarter windows on the hard tops and convertibles are a whole 'nuther matter.

The channel at the very bottom of the door glass is known in the trade as the sash channel. This is made up of different pieces of formed metal, welded together; as such they sometimes suffer from rust, but can usually be repaired. The sash channel is fastened to the window by rubber glass-setting tape - basically, a friction fit. I've seen a few let channels let go from old age (and not just in Packards); any glass man that's been at it for more than a couple of decades can set them with new tape, provided they can properly index the channel to the glass. (Be mindful of any "witness marks".)

Best thing for inexpensive would be to download the Restoration Specialtiesrestorationspecialties.com/ catalog. They have an assortment of most of the channels still available today with details and cross section illustrations. You can see what they have in the style closest to yours and order bulk. Not that difficult to bend and cut them. There might be a bit of work mounting them since a lot of the original pieces were riveted. Pop rivets are a bit large but there are ways they can be done -- sometimes using small screws.

For considerably more money, Steele, Kanter and maybe others have some precut, premade kits for some models but, as I recall you still have to figure out mounting on some items.

As to the moving back and forth part, the very bottom of the rear channel has a bracket which bolts to door and attaches to channel to provide adjustment. Point being that bracket becoming disconnected from channel either from rusting or bolt or rivet falling out and letting the window move was an issue for some. Don't remember the front channel arrangement exactly but check it as well.

Brian, Howard thanks, i will probably go with steel, JC Withney used to have them, but it was hard to figure out which type to get,

i hope that its just a screw and not the bracket, i can't remember how the front is held either. But i will find out,

i replaced the glass both sides years ago, then with the bad channel they broke again,

thanks

An article in SC Vol. 30, No. 9 (p. 36) addressed a problem of broken door glass. Cause allegedly a loose run channel, with advice to check for alignment of the runs, inspect for broken welds at end of "runway retainer", and - if needed - secure said retainer to door bracket with a "Parker-Kalon" screw.

Parker-Kalon is a company that, today, makes a variety of specialty screws, but it's also the registered trade name for the what's become the garden-variety self-tapping sheet metal screw. They invented it.

According to parts book terminology, the "retainer" is only used at the rear of the door glass. I've not inspected that far, but sounds like the bracket(s) must have been spot-welded, originally. If clearance is an issue, a pop rivet might provide more than a flat head screw.

My local glass guy can make tempered glass for any flat window in any reasonable size. Something like ten times as strong as "safety" glass and not outrageous $.

Thanks, Pat, Brian < Howard, going to see what my local auto glass company has, flat glass they should stock, going to take glass and frame to them , and let them, put it together,

about the brace, i hope i can see where it was attached, so i can keep window straght.

thanks...

Plate No. 20E in the parts books provides an exploded view of the door window hardware, but that's not enough help. Take a look at Figure 53 in the "Body" section of the 55-56 shop manual, which shows the adjusting points for your door glass.

Support the rear of the window glass, remove the two screws for adjusting the rear channel (retainer), and you'll be able to remove the assembly and work on your bench. Even if it's a spot weld that's broken there should be sufficient evidence where to locate and drill holes.

If you do actually repair the channel, please take some pictures and post them. Maybe tag your post as "Window Channel" and "Broken Glass Window," so it can easily be found later with a search.

I have the same issue. Just replaced my driver's glass, and now, I have a small crack at the bottom. I'd like to see pics of what is involved - how the channel parts are oriented, how you get to them, etc.

Fortunately, the crack is hardly visible, so I will not worry unless it spreads. In the meantime, the trick is to never close the door with the window rolled down.

Good find, BH.

Looking at figure 53 in the Body Manual, how would you access the broken weld to repair it?