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I've been looking for 5/16 copper tubing to replace my fuel line from the Fuel Pump to the Cab. since that's whats on it now. But trying to find 5/16 copper tubing isn't easy, and when people ask me what's it for, they say I should be using steel. So should it be copper or steel?

Wesley, My recommendation is to use steel line since that's what came with the car originally IIRC.

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Agreed. Steel was original. You might try straight brake line from Napa. They have several lengths of steel tubing from 1' to 5'. You might be lucky and find one very close to what you need. Might even be able to use one if not both of the finished ends as long as the nuts are not metric thread.

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I think you want copper nickle tubing. It is the best for use as brake lines and fuel line it is easy to bend and flare. NAPA stores in Missouri have it available. It is also available on line. This is discussed in a Old gas tank for Clipper thread.

Wes, what is wrong with the current line? Surely it hasn't rusted??

I like the cupro-nickel lines because they will not rust.
However the line from the pump to the carb does not suffer that fate.
The brake lines and fuel line from the tank are out of view, but the line from the pump to the carb is in plain sight when the hood is up. I would use steel in this instance.

Randy, I'm just trying to put it back to original, plus the copper is pretty much bent in many directions. When you buy brake line all ready made it comes with two different kinds of fittings. One long and the other short, I know that back in 1947 they only use the short fittings for the brake lines, but does that still hold true for fuel lines?

Plus after looking at the pictures below of a Super Clipper, it looks like I'm missing a heat shield that goes around the fuel pump, or was that shield not installed on a Custom Super Clipper?

Thanks everyone for the input!

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There is a shield on all 8's - maybe 6's too - but manual lists different for 356 vs other engines.

As to the line there is a long and short nut. If mine I would use short on top where seen and long on bottom where it is fairly well hidden. If you had to cut a length then no problem because you could put whichever nuts you like on and still have one finished end.

Surely someone with a good heat shield could copy it to thin card stock and mail it along with a picture of the installation to Mr. Boyer.
The mechanics who said "you don't need that" have screwed up more cars. A pox #$%%^&*( on all of them.

Dear Wesley:

You can get copper tubing from McMaster-Carr and they won't be smart aleck about it.

The original steel lines were flared using hydraulic machinery to exacting specifications. You can't do that in your garage so copper is the best choice because it will seal without over torqing and will not overstress irreplacable castings. When you fit the line you want to bend it to fit the pattern. That is do not install one end and bend the other to suit. Once you have it set up you should be able to install the line finger tight so that the line will rattle in place. Then tighten for a stress free set up.

Also, you can get insulation loom from one of the wiring suppliers or Restoration Supply in CA. They stopped using it after the war, but hopefully nobody will bxtch.

If you want the look of steel then you can have it zinc plated.