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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#21
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Kevin AZ
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After speaking personally with Hank, I created the "purple stuff" he's mentioned in his blog many times. Further, he encouraged me to take the gears out and get to it. The pictures show this afternoon's progress. BTW, I encounter very hard grease and what appeared to be water too inside the casing. I'm going to let things soak a couple of days as Hank recommends and use traditional cleaning methods on the casings. I also ordered the grease cups from Max Merritt today too.

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Posted on: 2013/1/8 19:58
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#22
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Kevin AZ
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Forgot to add these.

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Posted on: 2013/1/8 20:44
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#23
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Reyman R. Branting
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I left the motor with another generator/alternator rebuilder for a second opinion. I'll get pictures in a day or two when I hear from the rebuilder. The wires go through grommets into the motor.

Thanks for the comments.

Bernardi

Posted on: 2013/1/9 2:13
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#24
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Kevin AZ
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Today's progress.

Hank's Purple cleaner is rather amazing. Most grease just brushed off with and old tooth brush. Still have to clean the casing attached to the motor however.

Now for parts 15.942 and 15.946. Despite the gear moving freely (it spins) I cannot seem to get the .946 off the stem? Consulting with Hank we are going to let the parts soak in pure PB Blaster for a period of time. I hope nothing more sinister is occurring.

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Posted on: 2013/1/9 18:35
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#25
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Cli55er
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yeah i sure hope that helps. one other thing i've found that helps is a bit of heat after it has soaked in PB.

i have a little torch i use to heat it up. then i give things some taps with a rubber mallet. don't really want to use a metal hammer, that could distort the metal and make things even worse.

another thing i've been known to do, which sometimes works and sometimes makes things worse. is to try to move the part in the opposite direction of what you want it to move.

in this case you can push down on the little ring to break loose any grundge, but alternatively that may make it even harder to move in the opposite direction. 50/50 chance it frees it up and you can move it easier off the stem. if i was to do that i would get a socket the same size as the ring and put it on top and smack it with a rubber mallet at first. this is assuming there is room for it to move downward on the stem. this is something i would do in a very last resort. its anyone's guess which way that will help or hurt things and i'm not saying that is sound advise...its just something i've been known to do in a dire pinch.

but like i said...first PB, some heat, and some good wacks with a rubber mallet. hopefully that works.

if anyone else has any good advise on how to get that stuck ring off, please chime in.

you don't have to do this, but because i'm anal about cleaning parts....i take my bench grinder that has a wire brush mounted and i polish up the parts to a shine. i'm sure the parts as they appear in your pictures, grease free, will be fine, but i'm just that type that takes it that step further and polishes with a wire brush to get a shine on the metal. as you can see there is some surface rust on some of the gears that would benefit from this extra step.

good luck buddy!

Hank

Posted on: 2013/1/10 10:25
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#26
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HH56
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Hank's suggestions are all good ones. I would examine the post attachment to the carrier carefully on the smooth side for any signs of bending or cracking. If the carriers rubbed together, there could also be a burr on the top of the post preventing the spacer from sliding. Look for something like that and use a file on the post if needed.

If that all looks good then in addition to some light heat I would use channel locks to gently grab the spacer and see if you can rotate and pull up at the same time. If you wanted to you could pad the jaws. Alternately a couple of equally spaced screwdrivers placed under the gear where the carrier is undercut could be used as levers to gently pry up.

They are all steel parts able to carry a lot of load by design. If you don't get carried away with prying or squeezing the channel locks, what little you can give them should do no harm. If it does then the parts were damaged and should have been replaced anyway.

Posted on: 2013/1/10 10:57
Howard
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#27
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Kevin AZ
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The PB Blaster soak has worked with some gentle persuasion with the smallest of a flat bladed screw driver.

Posted on: 2013/1/11 21:35
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#28
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Randy Berger
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Smile

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Posted on: 2013/1/11 21:55
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Re: 55 Drag Link and Torsion Level Motor seals/gaskets
#29
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Reyman R. Branting
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The Torsion Level Compensator Motor was left with a generator rebuilder for an estimate on replacing the external wires. Instead of giving me an estimate, the wires were replaced at a cost of $150. Replacement wires of the same color were not available (?), so the new ones were labeled. If some one can tell me how to attach a picture to a post, I'll put it on line.

Thanks,
Bernardi

Posted on: 2013/2/9 14:21
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