Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I have a similar oil leak in my 56 Exec. and am pretty sure it's the rear main seal (although I'll check the oil pan bolts, first). I was wondering if running the engine with the additional quart of oil would cause the rear oil seal to leak? The additional oil is to keep the tappets quiet, as I still have the original oil pump in the car.

If it is the rear seal, what are the procedures to follow to replace the seal with the engine and tranny still in the car?

I doubt the extra oil causes the problem as many of us do that, though 1/2 quart is more commonly what most folks add as extra. There is a drain or return hole for the rear seal in the rear main bearing cap and if that's clogged, it could cause the leak and not the seal itself - you'll see it when you drop the cap. Changing the seal is the same procedure as used on many makes of cars for decades, very standard stuff - try any of the Packard shop manuals back into the 30s for the procedure but essentially, after removal of the rear main bearing cap and old seal halves, it's installing the new graphite cord, forming it into shape and very carefully trimming the ends. Your not the first to bring this topic up, it's been discussed on here many times in the past, so try a search.

Not particularly a "fun" job. You'll want to find one of those "Chinese finger" toys to pull the upper seal half thru, and loosening all the remaining main bearing caps a small but equal amount allows the crank to drop a small amount and provides a bit extra clearance.

its,,better to just pull the engine,

only way to do it right,

I have never had a rear leak,,,,if any rope is left hanging, over, and gets on mating surface of bearing cap,, it will leak,

I would pull the engine,,

The graphited cord type rear seals are quite robust and long-lived, usually performing well for the life of the engine up to the point of a rebuild being required. And I'd agree it's a lot easier to do with the engine removed; yet I'd bet tens and tens of thousands have been replaced with the engine in the car. I've done a fair number of them on the in-line engines and while a picky job, easily enough done.

If the engine in question doesn't have 100,000 or so miles on it, I'd bet it's a plugged return passage or the leak is from some other source.

As to the front seal turning in the timing chain cover, note there was a service part replacement where the metal housing was knurled to better secure it, this type plus a little Locktite should secure it nicely as long as the housing isn't damaged.

The attached from Motor's may be helpful to you in understanding the arrangement; this for Pontiac but most all makes were designed pretty much the same.

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I guess I will chime in too, I have a very similar issue. My 55 clipper only leaks oil after it has run, it does not leak while it is running. It drips off of the trans inspeciton cover, I have had the cover off and it is not wet inside, the top of the block and valve covers are not wet too. It only leaves about a pop can size spot. I thought it was the rear main seal too, but that should leak when the car is running too. Is there a breather valve that could be clogged on mine.

Thanks, sorry trying not to hijack the thread but I was going to post about this sometime soon anyway

I think there is another topic somewhere about this, but this came along in the search

fel pro BS 60413, looked to me its sits to low in main, and like was said you need a spacer.

think i will stick with rope.

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I agree OEM rope seals are usually good for many miles & years of service. But they are getting hard to find. About 10 years ago I rebuilt a 352 and could not find an OEM seal, so used a repro. After about 15,000 miles it began leaking like a sieve. When removed, it looked like a mop string.

I tried hard to install another rope seal, as I'd heard many folks say was easy. I could not even come close to installing it in the upper half of the block. The crank would not drop down far enough due to the tranny shaft.

I had neither time nor desire to remove the tranny and/or motor, especially since I was scheduled to leave in a week to drive the car on a 4500 mile round trip, Kentucky to Washington, to the Studebaker International Meet. So I looked at modern, neoprene seals, and found one close enough, which someone posted above. With a little ingenuity, it fit perfectly and when I arrived in Washington, my 56J was drier underneath than most any Stude there. I drove that car about 25,000 miles with the seal in place, then sold it. AFAIK, the car is alive and well in the northeast, still with the seal in place.

I have had the same type seal in the other 56J now for over 15,000 miles and recently had the oil pan off. I could have easily replaced the seal then, but it was still working good as ever so I left it alone.

In sum, if anyone can install a rope seal with engine in car, my hat is off to you. I can assure anyone that, properly installed, the above neoprene seal will fit the bill nicely. Most important, it is a snap to install with the motor in the car.

Joe, in a bind, you gotta use what you can find, never have done a rope in the car. i do have an org rope on its way, tried best gasket rope that came with the gasket set i bought, nothing but problems with it, its turning. never have had a problem with rope.

the machine shop has some rope that he uses for tractor engines, never had a problem with it. so heading out there later to fit my main cap,,think it comes in different sizes.

so might use that if it fits.

best gaskets use fiber for all its gaskets which i don't care for. to thick.. except the ft.timing cover it uses rubber replacement .

i read posts from other sites that people with the car that seal goes on they even have problems. So must be hit or miss.

whatever you did worked!.

using a steel spacer i would be worried about it moving on to the crank.

I trust the neoprene seal as much as the OEM rope. If the motor is in the car, the neoprene is certainly the only way to go.

I used a piece of coat-hanger wire, about .100" thick for a spacer. Bent two pieces into half moon shape and slipped it in alongside the seal and bottomed out in the cavity. It is only there to keep the seal centered in the recess. Once you look at one, you'd see it is highly unlikely to slip. Much less likely than a rope seal, due to the design and fact that it does not cling to the crank for the first 100 miles or so, as the rope does.

A kajillion GM vehicles in the 1980s to 1990s can't be wrong. The seal doesn't know if its in a Cadillac or a Packard, and preforms equally well in either.

A caution: the above pic has the seal installed backward. The lip must face the motor.

Lisle Tools has a product they call the "sneaky pete" Part #27000 which is supposed to do those seals in the car.

If one of those is leaking, you can also make a tool to cram more material into the channel. It is just packing.