Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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Take photos and show what you are talking about, don't just describe.
When you say "rear glass" suspect you mean rear side quarter glass. The entire top frame has many adjustments, some not very obvious. Some are hinged folding pivots. Make certain that no pivot point or hinge is binding. Note position and anchor placement of rearmost pivots. These can affect side alignment of frame rails. Also be absolutely certain that BOTH hydraulic rams are traveling full and equal length. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 2014/12/10 0:15
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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+Use extreme care that the top goes up evenly on both sides.
The side rails are aluminum and are very brittle. They will break. They are impossible to repair. After several attempts made by aluminum welders in my area, I ended modifying a couple of side rails from a 54 convert.
Posted on: 2014/12/11 0:08
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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55Clipper,
What did you modify on the 54 side rails to work on your 55?
Posted on: 2014/12/11 14:03
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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The front side rail was the one Modified. As I recall, this was a time ago, I had to remove some metal so that it fit into the header. It held up ok until I was finally able to find a complete set of used side rails from a 55. Due to my carelessness I had several cracked side rails. I still have not replaced them all but will when I am confident that the top is working properly.
Another thing to note is, don't use silicone brake fluid in the pump.
Posted on: 2014/12/11 16:29
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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Quote:
Word to the wise: don't use ANY brake fluid at all in the convertible top electro-hydraulic system. Use automatic transmission fluid. It will never turn into rock-salt-looking crystals from lack of use and won't destroy your paint or seals. As for cracked side rails, this phenomenon is not limited to Packards. Many other American-made convertibles of the 1950s had such brittle cast aluminum side rails. All of which is an absolute reason to never, ever try to manually force your power convertible top up or down. To do so is just begging for trouble and damage that will require parts to be replaced. The castings were not the strongest in the first place (they didn't need to be if used as designed)... and due to the nature of old aluminum, they have a terrible tendency to a condition known as "age hardening." As such they become even more brittle and less likely to flex under any out-of-plane pressure.
Posted on: 2014/12/14 23:56
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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Wanted to thank all for their comments.,The Pistons are running out equally through the full operation cycle,and there is no binding on any of the pivot points, but the left side is still an issue. This may have been a problem from new since I think the top frame was impacting the rear edge of the chrome Molding below the driver side quarter window. There is evidence that someone in the past attempted to secure clearance by,hammering the inner panel where the rear screw for the molding attaches. That molding was missing from the car when I bought it so it may have been broken by trying to force the top down. No sure but I don't want to risk damaging the replacement.
The main connecting bolt that attaches the top frame to the body runs through a bracket that is attached to the body by 4 rivets . I am reluctant to touch that bracket since it is clearly original and appears to be aligned at the same level as the passenger side. Will adjustment of the three bolts that ride in the slots and hold the bracket behind the main attachment point allow the top to be lifted around 1/2-3-4 inches to secure clearance above the interior molding?. That should correct the bind on the driver side quarter window.
Posted on: 2014/12/15 1:04
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Re: 1955 Caribbean top adjustment
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Quote:
Okay, but no response about adjustment on rearmost driver-side pivot and shoulder bolt? This is adjustable and affects side rail elevation/alignment. There are other adjustments too.
Posted on: 2014/12/16 12:59
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