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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
#21
Home away from home
Home away from home

PackardDon
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The transmission is also part of the ElectroMatic setup as it has a governor that the standard transmission does not have. If you sell the unit as a kit for someone to add the accessory to their car, you’ll have to plan on including the transmission as without it the rest is useless.

Posted on: 4/5 10:57
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
#22
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Wat_Tyler
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Which runs my labor and the price up toward unaffordable.


I think I was hoping to find someone who has one that's missing some parts or has failed parts.


No matter, something will become apparent.

Posted on: 4/5 19:51
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
#23
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HH56
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Don't remember if you said you have OD but if so, you also need the governor so that could not be part of the EC package for sale. Anyone needing EC parts to reinstall or fix an existing system would most likely have the governor anyway since that would not typically be a part that would interfere with anything and be removed.

On prewar cars the EC could be bought as a stand alone option and there was an adapter plate which formed the back end of the trans to hold the governor. On postwar cars I am not sure if EC could be obtained without also having OD. If it could and an owner now wanted to add just EC he would need to find the adapter plate and trans. I doubt EC only was that popular by itself so would think it not that easy to find the EC only adapter and trans. In that case it would probably be easier to find an OD trans (which are more easily available) and add a new OD along with the EC.

Posted on: 4/5 20:23
Howard
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Re: Wat's Clipper coupe
#24
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Wat_Tyler
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Yes, apparently, there is an OD unit out back of the trans. There is certainly a block-out pull knob under the dash. It's stuck, so I'm trying to convince some oil to go down the cable.

Frankly, I haven't slithered under the car yet.

Posted on: 4/6 19:01
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Re: Wat
#25
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HH56
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I don't know how successful you will be in having oil run down the cable with it in place. Whatever you do get it free before trying to force the issue or the cable housing will likely separate from the pot metal crimp at the end of the bracket. That cable separation is the typical failure of the assy.

The inner wire and outer housing are both steel wire and rust does a good job sticking the two together. On mine I removed the cable from the car and coiled it up in a reasonably tight coil so the curvature opened the outer wire coils in the housing slightly. Left it coiled and let it soak in penetrating fluid for a day or so. After that process the wire freed up and I was able to use oil in the same coiled up manner to get a bit of lube inside. Followed that by hanging the cable up vertically and adding more oil thru the lockout switch hole to let the oil trickle down the length of the cable over a period of time.

Here is the typical failure caused by pushing the knob with a stuck cable wire. The pot metal crimp splits and lets the cable housing slide out. Once that happens the assy is useless. If needed a repair can be made by using split collars to compress the split and the crimp.

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Posted on: 4/6 20:09
Howard
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Re: Wat
#26
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Wat_Tyler
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THanks for that tip. Yeah, I'm allergic to pushing things too hard without trying to get some lube inside before turning,pulling/pushing. The stuff that broke when I was a teenager has had 40 good years of further rusting to be that much tighter.

I did figure out the 6 vs 8 dilemma for the short wheelbase car. It's as obvious as the nose on my face, but you don't see it until you see it.

https://assets.hemmings.com/uimage/73359396-770-0@2X.jpg?rev=1

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Posted on: 4/13 4:01
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