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Update: the rope seal is not the problem.
also, can anybody tell me what a good way to tell if a crankshaft is bent is? Or is that something only a machine shop would be able to determine

It takes special measuring tools so best to take it to the shop.

I have not had to do this myself.. throwing that caveat out there. If it were me, I'd probably throw my dial gauge indicator on it and look for runout. Thinking perhaps plastigauge may help indicate where you have a problem too.

Mike

It takes special measuring tools so best to take it to the shop. Even though I am a journeyman machinist (non-automotive), this is the sort of thing that I always have done rather than trying to do myself.

You can buy a dial indicator with a magnetic base and use that to check runout.

Those cranks can bend if stored laying on the ground rather than standing on end, or by beating on those motors. They also can crack.

With the senior cars those problems seemed to begin showing up as Packard increased the horsepower by 1933. One reason I never beat on those motors.

"Those cranks can bend if stored laying on the ground rather than standing on end, or by beating on those motors. They also can crack."
For the few months I had the engine apart it was always stored upright it was only maybe half a week after I got it back from the machine shop that it was kept on its side. Also it was only at the machine shop for about 2 weeks and I cant say if they stored it upright or on its side. Do you think that's long enough for it to bend?

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Update: there is nothing under/on the the bearings except for assembly lube they a\have been carefully cleaned on all sides and reinstalled even more carefully than before and the crank still binds.

Have you checked the bearing shells? Could one or more sets of undersize (or more undersize than you wanted) bearing shells been installed, e.g. a vendor mistake? You said you checked the clearances. If the crank is bent you say it only happens to the last 2 mains near the transmission. If you crank down on only the last bearing cap and the first bearing cap, the binding from a bent crank, if any, should be less. Similarly if you only crank down on the first and the second-to-last. Might be a way to understand what is happenning. I still don't understand about the clunk.

Have to check that all the machining was done right. ie, if they missed one or didn't cut it the right size, misaligned, etc. then the oversize bearings will "over"-tighten. The blocks are best align honed, so since that wasn't done it complicates trueness.
eg;I bought a "rebuilt" spare motor for the Cad and the crank journals were all over the map, so it happens. There's certain re-assembly checks that you have to make to guarantee it's going back correctly. A little more art than changing an oil filter.
There's a magic clearance on the bearings to get correct oil flow. So if too tight going back, you'll ruin it.
Just one of the magnified issues with straighties, longer bending moment. Becoming a lost art.
Lots of lost art in those passe rope seals too. Common early issue across the brands.

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I wouldn't think so because the bearings all came in the same box as a set but I will still definitely check it out
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So, after I did this I found that no matter how many other caps are on as long as either that #4 or 5 cap is on the crank is completely locked up. even if it is only that one cap on.