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Hello Packard enthusiasts,

It’s been a while since I’ve posted. I recently completed a barn find 1200 mile trip in a 1940 Packard 120. Some general know how, a box of tools, and tons of generous helping hands along the way. Phew! Next time I drive from home after going through the car. Its current state is basically a gorgeous jalopy with potential.

Anyway, now my first question: since getting home I replaced the head gasket (heating issues solved!), rebuilt the carburetor, and now I want to replace the distributor bushing. My timing was erratic and the engine would not idle evenly. I removed the distributor and checked for wobble or run out. Yep, noticeable run out just by wiggling by hand. This is a mechanical advance only distributor. I’ve taken all the parts out of it, even knocked a pin connecting the shaft to the body, but still cannot pull the thing apart. I’m afraid of getting too heavy handed. Any thoughts? Am I approaching this incorrectly? Any advice from those more knowledgeable than myself would be much appreciated.

Best, Erik

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Very nice car, especially as it’s all original! Is it one of the tiny Autolite distributors? I have one at my shop that was removed over 50 years ago but I had forgotten which year I had removed it from as I also had a 1939! Unfortunately it’s the 110 type so won’t help you any.

I can’t help much with your bushing question but it is always of interest to me on 1940 Packards, having owned a few of them, to compare the early trims to the later ones and had wondered if the change was done all at once or incrementally. Since your car is probably all original, it might shed some insight. I see the earlier bumper style with the later trunk emblem so I am curious, does it have script wheel covers or the type with the text in the ring around the hex? I think I see the script which is the earlier style but not sure. The bumper guards are quite different than any of mine had.

Hi there,

Not an expert in these cars, but from what I can tell it is all original except for the interior and the wiring. The previous owner did a home garage seat and door card recovering using Sunbrella fabric. Not too bad, but I plan to redo it in something closer to original or perhaps something of my invention…but have it done professionally and in wool. Also the wiring is not pretty, but very safe and usable. Some of the dash components have been removed (but were included in the sale). I would like to have all the original gauges working as well as the clock and dash lights. The seller provided all the documentation from new, as well as a folder of original repair manual card (?), receipts from a 1974 engine overhaul, and post cards and notes from the woman who bought the car new. Very cool to have these items.

I love the car the way it looks with its worn paint (original paint was dark blue…dang, wish it still had that), and tarnished trim. Partly because of budget and partly from a wish to retain the history of the car’s life, I want mostly to get it mechanically tight and smooth and leave the aesthetics as they are. The engine cold starts on the first revolution!

The hub caps have the center script. I assume the bumpers are original. The hood ornament is in great condition with the goddesses wing of glass. Sealed beam headlights (nice for seeing, but I kinda prefer the ‘38-‘39 domed glass bezel for looks…).

Also the distributor is the small Autolite type with mechanical advance only. I was surprised by that, but what the heck. Stromberg Ee-16 carb., 3 on the tree, no overdrive, heater and a radio with speaker…! Date of manufacture is 8-15-40

Ps. In the photo you can see a Ford junkyard heater core zip tied to the bumper. An attempt at providing some auxiliary cooling while driving across the Oregon desert.

Thanks, Erik

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You must have driven near my shop which is also in the Oregon High Desert just north of Terrebonne right in the center of the state. Did you come down Hwy 97?

I did! In fact I called The Binder Boneyard in Terrebone (international harvester pickup specialists that I buy parts from for my IH rigs) to see if they had any junk spare radiators available for sale. They referred me to Ira’s wrecking yard, where they gave me the radiator and parts to get me back on the road.

Wish I would’ve taken the time to do a search on this site for possible Packard enthusiasts/experts on my route. Would have no doubt made the trip less stressful. I had planned on taking 4 days to get from Troy, MT to Fort Bragg, CA. But instead it took 10. I had to fabricate manifold gaskets using 30 cal. shell casings for hole punches and other shade tree shenanigans to keep the old car going. If one will permit some self flattery, the car started/ran/stopped/shifted better when I got to CA than it did when I left MT. But, of course I haven’t forgotten that it is a well made and low maintenance vehicle by design. What a joy to own and tinker with!

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Heading south after Terrebonne you also probably passed a 1955 Patrician sitting under an awning at a small lot between there and Redmond right along the highway on the same side of the road.

Unfortunately I couldn't have been much help as I am currently about 700 miles away in Santa Cruz, CA where I live but will be up there again in a week and a half.

Here’s a photo of the distributor as I have taken it apart this far. Notice on the shaft I’ve removed the pin that apparently holds the shaft to the body(?). This required filing off one peened side of the pin and then driving it out. I was hesitant to do that, but it appeared to be the only last connection to removing the shaft from the body. I then held the unit by the shaft and tap the body with a hammer. Not too hard, but enough in my opinion to separate the two. Nothing. No movement. Hmm…do I get more aggressive? Any input would be great.

Thanks, Erik

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Remove the collar that is on the shaft below the dist housing

The easy way is to grip the dist. housing and with a soft hammer give the end of the shaft a whack.

The collar is not tite and should come off the shaft with the help of a flat blade screwdriver.

The pin holding the two shafts together is a loose fit and will come out easly, then the shaft will come out of the dist. housing with a little help from a brass punch and a hammer, I find that the end of the shaft is swollen the last inch from the holes and the slot.

John

John,

Thanks for the information. Kinda what I suspected in terms of procedure, but was a little hesitant considering the pin was factory riveted (judging by the waffle type peen that was used to secure it), and how nothing was popping apart with some love taps. Given what you said, I think all I need is to use a bit more force.

thanks again, I’ll post another response once I have success.

Erik

So easy. Popped right apart. I made an assumption that the shaft would separate once I removed the pin. Obviously not the case. Distributor is apart and awaiting new bushings and tune up kit.

Thanks for nudge in the right direction.

Best, Erik