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Thanks Mr. Pushbutton and BH for your feedback. I will endeavor to check the solenoids with a negative ground wire and will make a 12v test light for additional testing. I hope to get to this in the next couple of days. I will report back with my findings.

Regards,
Robert.

There are 2wo posts on the TL MOTOR. one is up, the other down. Attach a piece of wire from the + post of the battery and touch the other end to either one of the posts on the TL motor. If the TL motor does NOT run then u know therr i s a problem with the motor.

Robert -

The 12-volt test light we're talking about looks like a screwdriver with a pointed end (more like an awl) and a long wire coming out of the other end of the handle, terminating in a booted alligator clip.

To check for power feed, connect the clip to a good, nearby ground and probe the circuit in question. There's a bulb in the handle that will light if there is power present (but it can be changed to a 6-volt bulb for use in older cars).

This test light can also be used to check ground circuits. Connect the clip to a power feed in the car and touch the probe to a ground circuit. If the ground is good, the bulb will light.

These simple go/no-go test lights can be had at most auto parts stores for less than $10, and one will pay for itself hundreds of times over in the time you save. They're also a lot less delicate then a meter - digital or otherwise.

A set of good test leads (with booted aligator clips) also comes in handy for jumpering things. The ones for autmotive use have a better and more flexible and durable grade of insulation on the wires.

I think you'll have this problem IDed in short order.

Gents,

I was able to get in the garage last night and thanks to the great suggestions from this forum made some significant progress.

First the test lamp was invaluable. How I made it this far using a volt meter I'll never know!

Started from the red lead to the starter - good. Then to the 30amp fuse - bad and replaced. Then to the 7.5amp fuse - good. Then to the buss bar - good. Then it got very interesting.

So I look up from the engine compartment for a moment and notice that my brake lights are on reflecting against the garage door. Knowing that I swapped the brake switch on Saturday and may have miswired, I swapped the light green wire (top) and the dark green wire (bottom) and the brake lights go off...the solenoid clicks, TL motor comes on, and the rear of the car raises about 2" inches! What a wonderful sound!

Next, took a ground strap and touched the middle post (orange wire) of the first solenoid and it clicked as it should. Then took the ground strap and touched the middle post of the second solenoid (blue wire) and it clicked as it should. So I believe both solenoids are good. At this point, I believe it is back to its original state.

So back to the original issue, the front end is up and the top control arms are against the frame bumpers but the back is normal over the rear tires. Is there a way to bring the front down with the TL motor or is there simply not enough weight up front for the TL system to work properly?

Thanks again for all the help!
Robert.

Congratulations. As to the question on weight, I would think you are shy 5-600 lbs--maybe more--without the front end and it just can't compensate.

Don't adjust anything until you have all of the front end sheet metal, bumpers and trim back on the car--you will just be spinning your wheels and have to re-do everything.

Congratulations on a giant step forward, Robert! Really, the T/L system isn't as complicated as its detractors would have you believe.

Now, I would think that, even with the missing weight of the front clip, you'd be able to get the load off of those jounce bumpers. However, the result would be that the rear would appear to be riding high (until the car normal curb weight is re-established), but don't worry about that. At this point, your goal should be merely to get the car closer to a "level" stance. (BTW, you'll wanna wait to cinch the bolts for the rubber control arm bushings until the car is fully assembled).

Meanwhile, it sounds like you are grounding the correct terminals on the solenoids to energize them, but keep in mind that in doing so, you are bypassing the failsafe of the limit switch - that is, to prevent overtravel that bends splines and links (as Randy has found in his car). Move cautiously in this regard.

If the compensator won't "level" the car, do NOT attempt to adjust the linkage for the compensator control. Insted, try energizing one of the solenoids (likely the one with the orange wire (IF wired properly) to bring the rear up a little more in small increments (only an inch or two at a time) and see what effect it eventually has on the front. Also, you should do this with the under-dash cut-off swith in the off position.

Above all else, stay out from underneath the car during this process!

Thanks for the congrats but more importantly thank you all for the collective TL education. You can only learn so much in books!

Brian, I appreciate the detail you provided. Using Randy's example really hits home! For the moment I am okay with the level but may try as you suggested to cautiously bump the orange wire led solenoid to raise the back little by little to see if it makes any difference. Otherwise, I am going to be patient and wait until I get some of the front end sheet metal back on the car to see if the compensator will adjust.

And believe me I stay out from under that 5000 lb. car whenever possible...especially when the battery is connected

Please provide additional clarification from your statement below:

"BTW, you'll wanna wait to cinch the bolts for the rubber control arm bushings until the car is fully assembled"

You're talking about the pivot pins?

Thanks, Robert.

Robert,

You asked:

Quote:
No, I mean the bolts at the ends of the inner shaft of the upper and lower control arms.

While the outer pins use threaded (and lubricated) bushings, the inner pivots use rubber bushing, which do not (normally) rotate. If you tighten those bolts without sufficient load on the suspension/tires, you can end up with an undue amount of twist when the full load is applied.

Brian,

Thanks for the clarification. Good advice as always.

Robert.