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Hi folks, me again, 🤣
No seriously, were is the fuse bloc located I think I have a blown fuse, the car cut off on the road, starter was able to turn over a few times but the engine didn’t fire up, then it wouldn’t do any more, then I noticed the gages weren’t working, seems a fuse went or an interlock switch is stuck. Going to get the volt meter out and see if I can check continuity across the starter solenoid and a switch on the OD and reverse switches. Wanted to take it out after a wash job, to show it off but was disappointed. No power in circuit being “made”when the key is on.
😞
Check out the Packard Merlin engine wearing this mustang!

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No fuse block and the starter and ign sw etc is not protected anyway so something else is going on. Make sure to check battery cables and battery itself as well as their respective connections and terminals. Symptoms almost sound as if the battery or a cable terminal gave up and if either is old or dirty worth checking. Almost all electric feeds in the car except starter load goes thru the ammeter and those have been known to fail or connections loosen.

You can download the wiring diagram and owners manual from the literature archive. The owners manual has the fuse rating and a general location of where to look for the fuse.

Almost all lights are protected by self resetting circuit breakers mounted on the headlight switch or another is on the back of the instrument cluster. There are a few inline fuses for optional accessories such as the directional signals, clock, radio, heater, overdrive and Electromatic clutch but those are located in different spots and not concentrated in a fuse block.

Note that Packard used mostly SFE fuses and the physical length and sometimes diameter of the fuse is specific to amp rating. The fuse holders are sized for the fuses called for so modern fuses for the most part will not fit in the old holders. Napa usually has a good selection of SFE fuses.

That sounds like a battery or battery cable issue. Next stop would be the main body feed/ammeter/ignition switch.

Ok i have a new battery cable i can run from the starter solenoid to the negative post and a quick disconnect built in so I can brake the connection to save a parasitic drain. The current cable looks like
It’s wrapped with a full roll of electrical tape from end to end. You guys are top notch or as they say at Farmers Insurance “we know a thing or two because we’ve seen a thing or two “😉
Thanks again!!

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Gonna build a road kit so i don’t get stuck on the road
Without a contingency plan 😉
Thanks !