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Trying to get the overdrive working so that we can send it back to the owner.

We have replaced the wiring harness, relay, checked all the switches, replaced the governor switch as well. Not getting the light on the dash to activate nor hearing the relay engage either.

We are seeing power at the governor switch base.

What am I missing? I do have a rebuilt solenoid I could try. The car does not have electromatic

If you have the older 2 wire governor make sure the correct wire is connected to OD. The wire going to the bare terminal sort of in the middle near an edge of the back plate is the OD wire. The wire going into a raised section and maybe covered in tar is for EC and needs to be tucked aside.

Power comes from the fuse and if present a reverse safety switch at the base of the steering column which is closed in all gearshift positions except reverse. Make sure 6v is on terminal 1 of the relay. Governor provides the ground so what happens when you take a jumper wire and manually ground the wire going to the OD? Ground goes thru the kickdown and lockout switches to terminal 5 of the relay. Manually grounding should bring in the relay which then lights the indicator and also preps the solenoid. The indicator light stays on until solenoid plunger is fully extended and seated. This may not happen until the car is moving so pawl can mechanically engage gear. Solenoid contacts then disconnect light via wire at terminal 7.

The lockout switch can be fussy and not close reliably if the plunger has become worn. For the solenoid to pull in, power must be on terminals 3 and 4 of the solenoid at the same time.

Am sure you have these but with new loom and things disconnected would not hurt to verify the wires are on the correct terminals at relay and solenoid.

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Howard your post was very informative, thank you.

We removed the relay and wired it up on the bench and confirmed we have a damaged timing relay. If I jump across the relay we can trigger the light and engage the solenoid. The relay is toast.

I than setup the original relay and tested it in the same manor, the relay engaged (by grounding #5 terminal) light on and pushed out the solenoid.

See photos below of setup.

Eric

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Some progress, got the replacement relay in and wired up.

Now, when the battery is applied power the indicator light comes on and I hear the solenoid engage. When I pull the cable out, light goes out and solenoid releases, when pushed in, light comes on and solenoid engages. Tried the kickdown switch and same occurs.

It's pointing to a bad governor any suggestions as to how to test? I have 2 NOS covers and both are giving the same reading

Eric

About the only way to test the governor is to spin it in some way but it takes a fair number of RPMs to get to the OD ready speed. I don't know the exact number but someone who did that test using a drill motor says it needed to go surprisingly fast but didn't elaborate. Without a tachometer probably not something he knew anyway.

As a start, you might remove the back and clean and check the flyweights for damage and ensure they are free to move. Oil has a nasty habit of getting inside governors and it is possible some did and then congealed or otherwise gummed things up. Also verify the back mounting screw that goes thru the metal strap and provides ground to the contacts is present and metal strap is making good contact.

I did in fact I think fix it.

I found the spring over the counter weights to be too tight and adjusted the spring arms to allow the spring to drop and then spun with a drill at low speeds and with power to the governor adjusting until I had open contact at very low speed and stall, and then applied tension until the weights pushed the spring up and closing contact.

I'll put in the car tomorrow and try it.

Thanks
Eric

I did in fact I think fix it.

I found the spring over the counter weights to be too tight and adjusted the spring arms to allow the spring to drop and then spun with a drill at low speeds and with power to the governor adjusting until I had open contact at very low speed and stall, and then applied tension until the weights pushed the spring up and closing contact.

I'll put in the car tomorrow and try it.

Thanks
Eric

When you install the solenoid, make sure you rotate the transmission so that the pawl is lined up with an indentation and can manually be pushed in all of the way.

Quote:
And on the R9, when removing or installing the solenoid it is recommended you electrically activate the solenoid to extend the plunger. This enables getting the ball at the plunger end in and out of the groove in the pawl a bit easier. Also take note of the spacer orientation. It is not symmetrical so the two small holes go toward the rear.

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