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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Forum Ambassador
 
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If you need the hydraulic lifter gauge block to set the clearances, let me know. I manufactured and sold these for many years for the 288/327/359 engines. More recently I have been offering them on loan rather than purchase (and unfortunately I must say that many of folks who borrowed one failed to ever return it). I still have a few remaining and would be willing to again loan one out, hoping this time for a different outcome.
Posted on: 1/11 16:10
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Home away from home
 
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Shame on these Packard People that borrowed your gauge blocks and didn't return them. Good karma will still come your way, just not theirs! 
Posted on: 1/11 16:14
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Just can't stay away
 
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Thanks for the advice on all this, everybody. Tons to consider with all this, and lots of "damned if you do, damned if you don't."
I did confirm my "tick" is coming from the valve with the makeshift shim with a stethoscope. It seems to have the telltale signs of having collapsed (lifter stops spinning intermittently, all the others continue to spin). When the engine is off, the valve spring can be spun by hand. The last time I did a compression test (September 23, 2022), my compression numbers were all 87-92. The car truthfully runs much better now than it did then, but there've been numerous other things I've done to it in the meantime. I doubt the compression numbers have changed. I've put MAYBE 200 miles on the car since I bought it. I've changed the oil maybe four times? Doubtless it needs a proper date with a good mechanic. I'm currently running full synthetic 10W-30 (Amsoil if that matters) without additives. Gas is ethanol free with some MMO. Seems to be what most everybody uses. I have a couple NOS hydraulic lifters on order, along with a side valve compression tool, along with another tool for installing the keepers. My plan right now is to start by addressing the one lifter I know to be problematic. If I can get the hang of disassembling and reassembling everything with the problem valve, I'll dive into the others, working to clean the lifters and lap the valves. If I find I'm hitting my mechanical limit and feel like I'm going to make something worse, I'm going to hit the pause button and call in more experienced hands. It's a bit by bit approach, but it's where I am for now. Again, I appreciate the advice, everybody. Thank you!
Posted on: 1/11 21:32
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Home away from home
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I find it interesting that you can spin the valve spring by hand, maybe you have a bad spring, maybe your lifter isn't collapsed, but you have a recessed valve seat and the lifter is not able to pump up, but is otherwise fine??? When you did your compression test, did you try to determine if you had lower compression due to bad rings vs bad valves? When I started working on my car's engine I was in WAY over my head, but if you take your time, read the service manual, and ask lots of questions on the forum and go for it! You might be amazed what you're able to do! I was! If you're going to the work of pulling the head I would suggest checking all your valves, guides and lifters, it's not that much more time and you don't want to be opening it up again if you can help it.
Posted on: 1/11 22:12
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Home away from home
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You don’t need a tool for installing the keepers and the existence of such a tool never crossed my mind. Just a little dab of grease to act as a “glue” to keep them in place while releasing the valve spring compressor. Don’t forget to check the gap clearance with the special gauge if you can locate one and seems best to do so on all 16 valves.
Posted on: 1/11 22:19
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Home away from home
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I agree with Don on all points.
Posted on: 1/11 22:35
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Just can't stay away
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The thought of something wrong with the spring/seat did cross my mind. That said, I did order new valve springs and seats, too. I basically ordered all the valve components that were non-specific to whether it was an exhaust or intake valve. I did read up on installing new valves and the valve guides, reaming the guides and refacing the the valve stems in the manual... this was actually why I initially opted not to buy the gauge the Merritt.
Are you referring to this:https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022d~Z5Z5Z57221~P30.00~~~~S6SZ1CSUP075109116806a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022D Unfortunately, I didn't do a leak down test, but I'm sure there's going to be some leakiness. We'll see how this goes.
Posted on: 1/11 23:16
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Home away from home
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That's the gauge, I would buy, or borrow one. You want to check everything while you have it apart you make sure everything is within spec. Once you have things apart, and can see, test, and measure, I'm sure all will be revealed!
Posted on: 1/11 23:32
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Re: Hydraulic Lifter Tick
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Just can't stay away
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Sorry, I just don't get it. I cannot fathom the idea of using oil like 10W30 in one of these old bangers. I am sure the teenager at the parts retailer thinks it is good oil, yes it is, for a 2020 engine. As Scotty from Star Trek kept reminding Kirk, ye cannae change the laws of physics. The physics here is called Couette Flow, which in a nutshell means the greater the clearances the higher viscosity oil you need. More recent engines have much smaller clearances, so they can use lower viscosity lubricant, this reduces bearing friction. Engines made 70 years ago were never intended for anything less than 20W50, unless you are north of the Arctic Circle.
The lower viscosity oil will escape more easily from hydraulic lifters too. maybe that is the cause of your lifter rattle. If anyone has been running a Packard engine on low viscosity oil and tears it down for a rebuild, please post photos of the crank and bearings. Additionally hydraulic lifters don't like gunk in them, so one suggestion is use Diesel engine oil. Diesels are filthy, so oil for them has a high detergent content. You will be unlikely to get blockages in the lifters or galleries. Avoid the low viscosity 'water", this is poison. Gary (mechanical engineer)
Posted on: 1/12 8:23
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