Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Anyone given consideration to asking that company up in Canada that makes so many other OEM-duplicate repro tanks what their minimum order # and corresponding price would be? I suppose its possible that if we couldn't get enough demand here, someone like Joel or Kanters might be willing to buy the excess for future sale.

cut filler neck off. flip tank upside down. weld filler neck back on. maybe use Packard filler neck.

Good idea Owen. I'd even be willing to accept plastic if it makes a price difference. In fact, i mite even prefer plastic.

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So the sender would be on the bottom then? That's not a very good idea...

Cap off the sender hole with a 1/8 piece of flat steel. Cut a hole in the (once bottom) now top for the sender unit.

HH56: are the Ford tank top and bottom halves stamped from the same die like the Packard tank is made????

You tell me. There are 3 very similar tanks, only difference I can see from photos is the fill tube angle. Slightly more rectangular than ours but think will fit between frame and spare tire well. Only way to know is crawl under and measure. This is 3+ inches longer. If it did, wire for sender would probably lengthen and outlet may go to side, but those would be minor details if it would fit otherwise. Sent an email asking if they have more info but doubt they will have.

EDIT: Forgot to mention O_Ds suggestion is a good one but think I remember that the cost to make a piston run was so substantial that even Kanter couldn't justify it. Doubt this would be any more successful as there a lot more pistons needed than tanks & would also be substantial tooling costs for this. Probably not enough left on the road to ever need even a minimum run.

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http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm

See the 55/6/7 tank in the above link.

Someone on here recently lifted body from a Clipper. same person had a Chevy tank. The pic of frame after body removed showed where previous owner had notched the frame. Otherwise the tank fit just fine. I can't find the thread.

****Edit 12/01/09 NONETHELESS. Suppose the 55/6/7 Chev or Ford tank is used. Instead of cutting the frame, use an elbo welded to the short snout of the tank. Position the elbo so that it is pointing down toward the ground and weld or hose/clamp it in place.
Use another elbo welded or hosed and clamped to the open end of the first elbo. Weld or hose and clamp a Packard tank filler tube to the open end of the last elbo just installed.

The above description should get the routing of the filler tube circuit UNDER the frame. Same process could be used for the FORD tank. Will most likely require cutting the existing F or Chev tanks filler snout off closer to the tank before adding elbos.

OR to describe it another way:
THe elbos will resemble a kitchen sink drain trap. WHERE the tank is the sink, the 2wo elbos are the trap and the frame rail of the car passes thru the valley of the trap.

Will probably make filling gas tank a bit slow like filling a MoPar tank.
********* End editing.
The vent is next if anyone considers this feasible.

http://www.classiccarautoparts.com/index.html

The main problem I see with the 55-7 Chevy tank is the location of the sender. Ours won't work there on side and no provision on top for one without cutting a hole.. Also looked at a couple of the universal tanks and while size workable, looks like the inlet wrong (on those I looked at). Not quite following on the upside down T. One advantage of the Ford tank with a top fill would be no need for a vent.

I remember the poster with that Chevy setup and while tank fit, believe he was trying to use a GM sender -- I think because the outlet was thru the sender assy, he was using the complete setup and asking for info on gauges. The GM sender won't work with our gauges & nothing with the right ohm range & orientation I'm aware of will fit that hole unless possibly going the universal route from JC Whitney. Believe most GM pickup & outlets thru the sender unit so that might not work either. If a top hole were cut and our sender replaced by a screw on Ford sender, would still need some kind of pickup arangement out of the side hole but maybe just using their pickup assy with an additional top sender workable. Would be a little concerned about just cutting a hole though. Would have to have some kind of reinforcement.

As an aside, for anyone interested & still reading, the website above also looks like it has the Ford senders we need for 51-6 (S-F34)at what appears to be a good price. Turbopackman can tell us if it the right one by year.

I edited my post #17 above about plumbing the filler neck. Should work for either Ford or Chev tank.

That would be the correct one from that website.