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I had sent a request three days ago about t where too look for the Engine Id...Still Don't Know... : (.... the Auction ends today

I thought Packard V8 had answered this for you already, but I'll take another shot at it. There are two ways to tell. First, look at the flat in the front of the engine by the oil filler tube. Stamped # should match the vehicle # on the driver's door jamb if the engine is original to the car. The first 4 digits tell the whole story:

5687 = Packard 400
5697 = Caribbean hartop
5699 = Caribbean convertible
5682 = Patrician sedan

All those are 374 engines.

5662, 5667, 5642, 5647, 5622 are Clipper engines, 352 cubic inches. If the number you find begins with a 55, it's a 1955 engine.

Second way is to locate the Utica Plate engine # on the rear of the block, passenger side, just below the cylinder head - best seen from below. The prefix letter(s) will tell you which series of engine. The Utica prefixes A & AA are for the 5640 chassis; B & BB are for the 5660-70 chassis, C is for the Caribbeans (no CC), and D & DD are for the 5680 models. C and D & DD are 374 engines, the rest are 352 engines. No CC for Caribbeans as it was not available with a conventional flywheel, the double letters (AA, BB, etc) are for engines equipped with a flywheel and not a flex plate.

Note that the various engine #s sometimes appeared in different locations than normal, so you may have to look around a bit. Photo shows the normal location of the Utica engine plant number.

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Sorry, for the confusion I got the Answer Here Quickly but the Person who is selling the 400 on Ebay Hasn't answered back, I told him where to look for the Engine Id. and the codes...Still no answer...Nor the extra pic's He said would get and send me that has been 4-days now....

Doesn't sound like an anxious seller wanting to communicate with an informed buyer.

Doesn't sound like an anxious seller wanting to communicate with an informed buyer.

Very possible or it may be buried in snow, washed down a hill or the seller has lost his power. Nevada City is up in the mountains further north than Truckee (which set records) and the storm this last week has done a job on lots of places. Some of the mountain communities much further south near here at lower elevation than Nevada City have been without power for almost a week.

Green,

If you've expressed interest in his "buy-it-now" price and have shown your willingness to to deal fairly with him, I think It's his move, now. Time for you to clam up and let him stew about how badly he wants to sell.

I have mentioned before how mystifying it has been to me that sellers rely on that reassurance that with "just-a-little-finishing-work-you-can-drive-it- away." The statement naturally leads one to the question: "If it's so cheap and easy to to get running, why isn't it already done?" l think proabably because the seller has had experience in how a ittle work and expense can turn into a lot. And he knows way more about this car than he's letting on.

Most often, the seller's reply to such a simple question is, 'I just don't have time," or some such excuse. SO, you don't have time to put a few hours and some parts money into a car in order to add $1000 or more to your asking price, and probably make a quicker sale to boot?

Sometimes, it may truly be an impossible situation for the seller--no capabilities, no workspace, no enthusiasm for the work, no discretionary cash, etc. But I think more often than not, the real reason is "no faith in the car panning out."

This is just a speculation about a probable scenario that could play out when a seller offers an almost-but-not-quite running car. yet Individual cases may differ greatly and you could find a real deal.a

But it's just plain horse-tradin' sense that the faults of a car are not dwelt upon sellers. Hence, I'm in favor of doing a couple of hours of work on an "almost-running" car like that and find out a lot more about whether I'd walk or not. It doesn't take too long to pull the plugs and lube the cylinders, change the oil, pull a wheel and drum, yank on the exhaust system, drain the tank and blow out the lines... the usual. And you can always bring a spare battery with you.

A couple of days ago I did recieve a message about the Size of the engine...sort of.....this is the message

The engine number is not stamped in the usual spot you mentioned, that area has only one discernable letter, so I would assume an engine swap has occurred at some point and I dont know another way to determine the engine size.