Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Quote:

Thanks for this recommendation Terry.

It seems there are one or two firms in the UK who can do this. I found two others;

http://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/page_1256567090747.html
http://www.retfordautoelectrical.co.uk/

I did like the Magneto Guys (first one, above). They seem to have a lot of specialist kit to do bench testing etc. Have a look at it on their site - some of looks like it was saved from the Ark!!

The firm in Retford is only 20 miles from me so they have the advantage that I could call in and discuss in detail.

I will phone all three on Monday and make a decision.

Thanks again for your suggestion.

Dear kts68:

Okay, visually you have a problem vis a vis the poor regulator installation.

So to determine if the fields have been damaged, disconnect the field brush and check for lack of resistance between field wire and the generator case. If zero, then yes your fields are grounded and will not work.

If that test is negative then remove the regulator and jump armature directly using a test light with the motor running. If the test light glows, then you have a short circuit. If not, then jump the armature using a fused lead and ground the field wire. If the unit shows over 7.0 volts then your generator is good.

If nothing happens then either the brushes are bad, the armature is open, or the fields are open or internally shorted.

Somewhere I had a jig for testing generators using a pulley instead of a gear.

After the generator issue, given you don't have a cutout, then you might as well put a good regulator on the car. These can be hidden somewhere and the only visual change is two wires going to the generator. You can gut a non-authentic cut-out and use it as a junction box.

The original system was unreliable and hard on batteries.

I like the Standard Motor Products VR-8 which fits 1954 Chevrolet. However, the last time I checked they were running out of stock in the USA. Given the economic depression I doubt if they will ever be produced again. So solve your problems now and thus for life.

Good Luck

The original system was unreliable and hard on batteries.

Lack of reliability of the original generator/regulator configuration hasn't been the experience of most owners of these Packards that I've spoken with. Quite the opposite, many are still using an original and unaltered/unrepaired O-D system, new brushes in the generator not withstanding. The regulator on my 34 has been happily doing it's job for nearly 50 years since I bought the car, and perhaps even since it was new. Many folks relate similar experiences.

At this point I don't think we know that the Bosch regulator on the car in question is inoperative. And simple generator cut-outs that physically resemble the original generator-mounted unit were still available from NAPA at last check, and perhaps others.

Thanks Tim,

There is zero resistance through the coil and also between the coil and the casing so (as they say in the North of England)... its knackered!

I've spent 10 hours on this thing now so I'll leave it to the professionals.

Dear kts68:

There used to be a kit for the Model A that would put solid state field regulation under the lid of the Model A generator cut-out. I don't know if they are still available because I think the guy that made them (an engineer) died. You might be able to find his article and build your own unit.

The problem with the cut-out is that every time the points close the generator operates in full field mode. This beats the daylights out the thing. It's like driving a car with the throttle either wide open or closed. Yuk.

The slickest way to bypass the cut-out is to hide the field wire underneath the armature wire. This method is fully reversible as well. You can even tell everybody how great the cutout is working!

These generators are too expensive to leave to poor regulation.

Good luck.

The problem with the cut-out is that every time the points close the generator operates in full field mode.

Tim, isn't that only the case when the 3rd brush is in the extreme (highest charge) position? Or do I understand the function incorrectly?

I usually have my 3rd brush set so the ammeter is just barely on the + side with headlights on and at road speed, nowhere's near maximum. And for extended daylight driving I often turn on the parking lights.

Just as a matter of interest, here's the O-D cutout/regulator #21262 used on most 33 thru 35 and perhaps 36 senior models, though it can be used on earlier models. Along side to the right is the just-discontinued NAPA replacement - these were selling for about $40 at the time NAPA discontinued them about 18 months ago. They have no stock left but I know quite a few people loaded up on them when news of the discontinuation flew thru the hobby, so finding someone to part with one may not be that hard to do, if that's the route one wants to take.

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The regulator on the rite (with fuse at base) is identicle to those used on Indian m/c's 1948 and later EXCEPT that indian is NEG. ground. Note that the BASE of the reg has in blue leters what appears to be "POS ..". OEM the Indian regs were AL units but of course other aftermarkets offered them.

I'll have ask the local aeronautics electrician about the pos vs neg ground regulators. IIRC he told me that it really doesn't matter. THe question came up on a recent conversion i was working on. Never tried it myself.

Did Packard use any generators that were only TWO brush generators (NOT three brush)????

Did Packard use any generators that were only TWO brush generators (NOT three brush)????

You are joking, right?

There is a readily available solid state regulator replacement for Ford Model "A" generators.

The "A" generators used a cutout relay only, it is a simple matter to wire in a solid state diode to allow current flow in one direction only, by passing the points.

The following site has a voltage regulator for use with Ford generators. They have either the 6V or 12V options. These are all 3 terminal - case grounded and will work with either Positive or Negative ground systems.

Should be an easy task to remove the internals and place them in the original Owen Dyneto regulator, or locate the new regulator somewhere else and keep the stock regulator for aesthetics.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=142

My two cents - If the original Owen Dyneto regulator is properly rebuilt is works fine.

I had to re-wind the thermal regulator with nichrome wire on mine and it works great.