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Big Kev suggested on reply to my 6/21 posting that there may be debris in my gas tank starving the engine of fuel thus causing my rough idle issues. Based on my symptoms, I will pursue Big Kev's idea since the car runs fine at first start up, runs rough after a mile or so, then runs smooth after an immediate restart.

Question..what is the best way to check for sediment/rust in the tank and remedy it? PS, I show no dirt in the glass bowl sediment collector of my fuel filter, I have installed a new (rebuilt) fuel pump with neoprene gaskets, and the previous owner advised me that the gas tank had been treated with re-nu (how long ago not sure). PS, the car stopped running and would not restart once in the last couple months since I purchased it because of a debris chip clogging one of the check valves in my fuel pump. Suppose I should have put 2 + 2 together earlier than this. Also, I have noticed there is some kind of light colored coating in the fuel filler neck (maybe from the re-nu process) that has had several chip-shaped scrapings taken out of it by a gas station pump nozzle during routine refueling.

Thanks again for your thoughts! Happy 4th of July.

On your carburetor, is there a large bolt-looking thing just above the fuel inlet line? If you remove that you should find a fine mesh screen. Check it for debris. Just a really quick thought.

The Renu process should be OK if it was sent to a place that is an actual dealer for that process. There is only one place listed in Texas on the gas tank Renu websitehttp://www.gastankrenu.com/ if that is where the tank was done.

There are radiator shops and other places that "renu" the tank as well. Most are reputable, others just do a quick and dirty by not thoroughly cleaning the tank and using an off the shelf sealer hoping that will trap everything left behind. Sometimes those leave a bit to be desired and if that was what was done, perhaps a chunk of the coating has broken off and is causing a problem. A chunk large enough to block the inlet will probably be large enough to require tank removal. Otherwise, many have added an extra filter of the see thru type by the tank to see what's there and for keeping anything out of the pump.

I don't know of any way to rule something like that out now other than a filter or drain the tank & see if anything comes out. If anything does, then depending on what it is, probably only one long term solution. If the drain plug is rusted in tightly, then rather than force that and tempt breaking the bung loose, a tank removal and dumping the gas into a container is the best way.

To test for this, i ran a vinyl clear line from the passenger seat floor to the fuel pump inlet (through the hole in the firewall that the hood latch arm goes through), and then put it in a plastic gas jug and took it for a quick couple mile test drive. That'll bypass all of your lines and the tank. If it still does it, then you can rule that out.

It's not the safest or smartest thing to do, but it will confirm or deny your theory in about 5 minutes with no work.

Guess shortcuts can't be the safest way right?

Sounds like your Packard is having simular issues as mine if you get a fix then it will be good to test for my 51. I'm guessing that the worst case I'll have to have a rebuild.

The best way I know is to drop the tank, pull the sender and get a mechanic's mirror inside and look UP, that's where the bad rust will be. If you have any doubts about your local re-nu provider you can take the tank to a chem-strip place first, then to the Re-nu shop. I have used the Renu process on several tanks and have always been completely satisfied with the results.
Seeing chunks of rust is like seeing ants in the house--if you see one, there are more where you can't see them.
Treat the fuel system as a whole--every part of it is old and will need attention. If I do a fuel pump I will change the flex line (new one from the PAC region that re-pops them) blow out and pressure test the steel line (they can develop pin hole leaks that will drive you insane) and treat the tank. I don't like old cars that break down with wives and other doubting women inside.

"I don't like old cars that break down with wives and other doubting women inside."

Amen brother.

I jacked the rear end of the car up about 8 inches and let it sit for about 36 hours and then drained some gas into a white porcelain bucket (about 3 gal worth). Result was absolutely pristine gasoline with no sediment or rust in the bucket. Started the car yesterday and ran until warm. Car ran smoothly for about a mile then slight rough idle and misfire. Shut the engine down from rough idle and immediately restarted. Smooth idle and no misfire. Noticed the base of my Carter 2bbl quite damp with gas oozing from somewhere from the bottom part of the carb (perhaps from near the actuating shaft that runs thru it from one side to the other). Next step probably carb rebuild.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

"I don't like old cars that break down with wives and other doubting women inside."

Yeah, I know what you mean. My little old Jewish mother was in the car when it stalled at a stop sign. I am still living that one down.

One thing I learned over the last 50 years about fixing cars running poorly: 95% of all carburetor problems are cured by fixing the ignition. I have even had brand new ignition parts fail out of the box, including spark plugs. Misfire that changes with temperature sounds like electrical.