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Dave (O_D), I promise to steer this thread back to its roots.



For an usual car registration one need an evidence of ownership (sales contract) and the ok of the Technical Control Board ("T?V") after road safety test.
To register a vintage car you need additional a so-called Vehicle Type Approval ("ABE") if not already available for that type of car. The Vehicle Type Approval is a certificate of compliance, issued for a vehicle type and based on manufacturer's data. If a vehicle type based on its manufacturer's data complies to the national regulations then this vehicle type gets a Vehicle Type Approval. The process of getting this general approval is detached from a specific car and its age is irrelevant too. If one would install a trombone instead of an exhaust nothing would change as long as the vehicle type has a vehicle type approval. To get a license plate a specific car with Vehicle Type Approval has to conform to the manufacturer's data. That would be the suitable moment to have an exhaust pipe installed instead of a trombone.
If manufacturer data for a vehicle type are not available a car needs a single certificate of exemption. For that purpose it has to be measured to ensure that it corresponds to the national regulations. Its origin, build quality and age are irrelevant.
My sentences might be difficult to read but the described process is standardized and not a big deal. One hour, two stamps, some few Euro administration charge and everything is done. But if you know, some people have trouble to put one and one together and let this process grow into a nightmare.

Thank you Gerd.

In other words, no one with ZERO $ (or Euros) can get a license.

That's not what happens in the USA. If one gets run into by an illegal alien (non-USA citizen, even if drunk... and I can cite many examples.), then you are screwed. Even "uninsured motorist" coverage does not not protect you. Ain't it great to live in the USA?

Craig

Craig, I consider the USA to be a great nation, the leading economy and THE anchor point of democracy in the world. No drunken alien will change my settled conviction. Be sure that the overwhelming majority in Germany would answer the same. But gents, please keep your seats, no state of the union address from my side. Of course I know that your country isn't the heaven on earth. And I prefer German cars.

Maybe the next time I start a new thread I won't bother to say that it's just for information and no additional commentary is necessary.

Then again, I've taken my share of threads off-topic too.

sorry didn't mean to take it off track myself. i just wanted to compare the information to my current massive brakes on the z3.

thanks for posting the link to the information too!

Hank

Dave, thanks for the report and the flood of thoughts. I believe to know that both Ross and you won't find any news below but the following perhaps contains interesting stuff for others.

As we know disc brakes are better than drum brakes. But when talking about drum brakes then allow me to add a couple of thoughts. I would like to start with a theoretical reflection. To brake with drum brakes means to turn kinetic energy to heat by the help of friction. The tribological properties depends on:

a) the brake pressure
b) the size of friction surfaces
c) the surface condition

and other important parameters like drum temperature but I want to focus on the above mentioned proberties. Instead of longwinded explanations the following question shall confront you with the importance of

a) the brake pressure
During your military service have you ever sat on a cargo area of a truck, equipped with drum brakes and braked by compressed air? If yes, then you know that it makes no difference if the truck has drums or discs (normal load, no mountainside). The compressed air made the difference and changed even the strongest Private First Class into a flying Airman First Class. If neccesary then even a heavy vehicle stops faster than good for its load. When talking about the quality of drum brakes please make sure to talk about the complete system. To lose brake pressure starts at the first fulcrum of the brake pedal, continues in aged brake fluid, a sluggish master brake cylinder, kinked lines, bulbous hoses, soiled brake cylinders and dirt crunching brake shoes.

Ross respectively Dave talked about turned drums to increase

b) the size of friction surface
But how about the antagonist? Please find attached pics of a circumferential scraper plane. Whenever in use it tellingly shows that new brake shoes are not perfectly round.

Which leads to
c) the surface condition
The usual way is that people talking about a "settling in period". One reportedly has to accept that drum and new lining have to reseat but after 100 miles everything would be great.
I doubt that.
After 100 miles the spotty fitting lining is burned, has changed to glaze with the hardness of glass, perfect for striae formation on the inner surface of the drums.

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By help of an universal adapter the grinding machine can be used for almost every brake shoe. The axle journal mutates to the rotation center.
I attached an additional pic that examplifies the original condition after first iteration (left side, red arrows) and the surface when the job is done (right side). Please make sure to understand that only the red marked area would be in contact with the drum. Your new brake shoes including the perhaps turned drum would shrink to small blades.

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To quote Ross respectively Dave:

"...

2. If the drums are bell-shaped you'll never get good shoe contact with the drum. You don't want to turn drums unnecessarily but the surfaces MUST be parallel with the spindle or axle, so turn them if you have enough meat left.

3. Measure the drums to see if they are oversized (turned now or anytime in the past). If so, get thicker lining if you can and have them arc ground to match the new drum diameter..."

This begs the question, how to have them arc ground. Sometimes I read the suggestion to use chalk inside the drum or on the surface of the lining to mark the fitting areas. But usually it works when you just put the drums on the new lined brakes and let the lining slide at the drums while manually turning them some few revs to create visible sanding marks. Thereafter grind the outlined areas of the lining by use of a rasp and semicircularly movements in rolling direction. Today even bent rasps available (but really not necessary). After one or two repetitions lining and drum have the same radius of curvature.

It is easier to grind the lining instead to machine the drums and even the best machined drum can't compensate for uneven lining.

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