Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

The best of the switches, the rotary Cole-Hersee, is not built to be diassembled for cleaning and in fact should never require any attention - I know of many including my own that have been happily switching for 40 years or so with flawless performance. This may not be the case with cheaper switches.

The major safety issue with using a switch of either type is the potential for getting a dead short across the battery usually with very severe consequences. If a battery terminal type is mounted on the "hot" post and should have very close proximity to the (metal) battery hold down bracket, any slight movement at the fixed post portion that could cause contact which would be a dead short. If the rotary type, even when switched off, one pole is hot and if, for example, mounted underhood where a wrench or other metallic part could contact it, again a dead short. Thus using a switch to break the ground side can be far safer in those circumstances.

Mounted the switch this morning-brand is Taylor. Very similar to Cole-Hersee and good for 180 amps continuous. Fits nicely but there is a body flange close to side. Needed to use the extra back nut included for thin panels to space it out so flange could clear the large diameter switch body. This prevents using just the knob inside as it will be below firewall carpet--unless I make a presentable spot on firewall and finished hole or cutout in panel and carpet just large enough for knob. Not sure I like that idea so an extension will most likely be used. Question now is whether to bring it to back of dash near emerg brake and somewhat out of sight or just long enough to put the knob at surface of carpet.

Since the ground cable will pass near the PB relays, have decided insulated cable is needed rather than the flat braided stock type originally planned when switch was going to be mounted in front. 2 sections-1 lug to lug and other top post terminal to lug. Napa shows it available locally so will pick that up.

pics of mine for 12 years and 25K+ miles of use:

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1956 OEM factory battery installation question:

Was it installed with positive post toward front of car and closest to CL of car??

For 55-56, the Group 60 battery should be positioned so that the ground terminal is at the front, but I know of TWO versions of that battery, with different post positions.

The original version for 55 had posts at opposite corners. No matter which way you oriented that battery - for positive or negative ground applications - the ground post was at front OUTboard corner.

Second version has posts at corners along one side. For 55s with positive ground, this still puts the (+) ground post at front OUTboard corner. However, for 56s with negative ground (and 55s converted to such), this puts the (-) ground post at the front INboard corner - toward the engine (or C/L of the car).

Meanwhile, the parts book shows two different ground cables for 55th: long (19") and short (15"). The cable for 56th is different than short one for 55th because of tapered negative post.

Fascinating stuff. My mechanic insisted that I get a disconnect which was a brass appearing gizmo that went on a battery post and had a green on/off wheel. The next mechanic insisted that I remove the switch as it caused problems with battery charging. (Nothing happened to me; but he was sure the heavens would fall....).

Bottom line is that I can leave the car for a couple of months and it starts, so I figure things are ok. In the winter I make sure the battery is fully charged then pull the cable, which is about as simple as it gets.

I store with a full tank of gas with fresh stabil......

Quote:
An old-timer helped me out with the battery corrsion on my motorhome. He said clean up the posts first and after everything is clean and tight, pour a little 'KARO' syrup over the terminals. I said "sticky syrup is messier than vaseline, and what about ants?" He said the syrup will dry in a short time and did I ever see ants crawling over an acid filled battery?

Like PV8, I've got the simple twist-knob type mounted on my negative terminal (neg. ground).

There is a good pic of the battery installation for 1955. It shows the battery posts position in that year. For 1956 everyone switched the posts to the opposite side putting the negative post, which is closest to front of car, on the inside rather than the outside. This also put the positive (HOT) post closest to the fender. I assume this was done at GM's request as they mounted their batteries on the right front fender while Packard used the left front fender. The picture also shows the 19+ inch ground cable used in 1955.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5556/Sect10_SheetMetal.pdf

THanks BH & RB for the info.

HH56's post above made me wonder about it when he writes:
" (switch) Fits nicely but there is a body flange close to side."
AND:

"Since the ground cable will pass near the PB relays,..."

Based on his last sentence i assume he has the neg post (ground) toward back side of car instead of front of car.

PB relays on my 56 Exec are rearward of the battery. Maybe Carib is different. I don;t know so i got a little confused.

Patgreen writes:
"The next mechanic insisted that I remove the switch as it caused problems with battery charging. (Nothing happened to me; but he was sure the heavens would fall....)."

I'd like to know the mechanics reasoning begind that claim.

I did have a problem one time in 12 years because i forgot to tighten the thumb wheel tite enuf. But that was MY fault, NOT the disconnects fault. It is important to check thumb wheel tightness every so often. I suppose it could loosen due to road vibration. That's about the only reason i can think of. If there is something else i'd sure like to know what it is.