Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Circuit breakers have their plcae. But they are NOT fail safe. A fuse IS. CB's can loose capacity to protect just like a fuse looses in the opposite direction each time it gets hit. A CB can hang closed failing to protect. Use the CB at recommended amperage. Use a fuse slightly higher to protect against CB failure. A fuse blows it blows and that's that. If the fuse is blowing then u know three is something wrong for further investigation. A CB clicking is just a shoulder shrugger.

CB's get their devine trendy reputation as great and wonderful because house insurers tout and often demand them. But the real reason house insurance wants CB's is to differentiate 80 amp service from 100 amp service. Older houses (fused) used a lower service rate ( NOT in all cases) than the more modern houses with circuit breakers.

Howard, to answer your questions, the relay engaged while the car was parked. The CB probably kicked out many times, but kept resetting itself. I think it was all a relay failure as the points, after many years of operation, had too small an air gap. I am going to put a 20 amp fuse inline with the red wire from the PB motor to terminal #2 (two) on the PB relay. I don't want to alter the spade terminal at the end of the red wire and so I need to find a suitable insulated terminal to which I can mount the PB RED wire and the end of the new 20 map fuse.
I may use one terminal of a current 20 amp CB
http://www.delcity.net/store/Auto-Reset-Circuit-Breakers-!-12-volt/p_198669.a_1

As an afterthought, I thought I would hear some questions about the leather seal I described and pictured. I have never heard anyone else mention it. Perhaps everyone has it.

I don't even remember that leather seal but haven't had the motor off for 15 years so it may be there--kind of doubt it though.

I had given a little thought to trying to hide an ATC style type 3 manual reset breaker by doing something with an auto park relay can -- disabling that function & gutting a relay but leaving the can & terminals to connect but hide different things inside. Another possibility is putting a period correct fuse holder in the lead coming off starter solenoid before breaker so it would be hidden down by suspension solenoids.

I am not that much an authenticity stickler & better yet, my car is not perfect like yours so it leaves me more options.

Whoa! wait a minit! My car is a nice driver. It is far from perfect. I like your idea of using the park relay can or the ^%&*(@G shell of the relay that went south to hide the fuse
(or anything else) inside. I will borrow (steal) your idea and use it. I will post pics when I do it. That solves the problem of finding an insulated terminal to join the new fuse to the RED lead.
Thanks Howard!

My original voltage regulator can hides the 50amp maxi-fuse that protects the new harness. Those cans are great for hiding things in plain sight.