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B&M has actually improved my Ultramatics performance.Bent linkage is probably the reason your trans is shot.They are very sensitive to the linkage adjustments.As to six volt systems, they are fine.My father used to go out in the morning evey winter and his car would start right up.The big problem today is the owners.They have regular 12 volt batery cables on their car and they wonder why they crank so slowly.

Well I finally pulled the transmission pan and found the filter covered in what appears to be lint.(like you see in a dryer vent) The lint is hanging about an inch around the perimeter of the screen. Fluid is black. Doesn't smell burned.

Was there some type of cloth on the screen when it was new? Hoping it isn't material from the bands. Fat chance...

What do I do now ? There should be a plug in the converter right ? Thinking of dropping all the fluid and refilling it.
Wonder if this is a waste of time and money...

All I have ever put in it was the Trick Sh*t. If I were to start from scratch what fluid should I use ? Ford ? Dex III ?

Looks like my buddy was right. That fluid ate up something and dumped it in the screen. Explains why the governor wouldn't release the overdrive.

Hopefully the trans isn't shot.

OTG

The Ultramatic filter is a screen type. I've never encountered anything resembling lint in any trans fluid change. Black color doesn't sound good - might wanna save some of that to send out for analysis.

There are two plugs in the converter - 180-degrees apart. Loosen one, then rotate and remove the other to drain. See SC Vol. 23, No. 9, p. 46 for an illustration.

As for what fluid, Ford went straight from Type A to their own Type F formulation. In the late 1960s, Dexron replaced the AQ-ATF used in GM transmissions, which had superseded the original Type A fluid specification for the Ultramatic. However, subsequent formulations of Dexron no longer contain whale oil. Either one will work, but those favoring Type F do so for reasons of clutch slippage. See the FAQ post on ULTRAMATIC: What Fluid to Use for further details.

If you have to go further, know that the Ultramatic converter is not a welded assembly, but bolts together. Thus, it can be disassembled for further cleaning and rebuilding, off-car. However, because it is balanced at the factory, be sure to scribe a line across the edge of the two halves BEFORE it is taken apart.

Trick shift has been around for several years and used in various make transmissions. The original friction material in the Ultra was cork and the later replacement items from good Packard vendors have been modern GM materials. Neither disintegrates to resemble lint as I recall. The cork wears and flakes or powders away. Not sure what the GM stuff does but since untold numbers of GM transmissions use Trick Shift in racing applications doubt any issues. If replacement friction items from a questionable source was installed, then who knows. As several on the forum have used Trick Shift without problem, doubt that in itself is the root of the issue--unless perhaps there was still a lot of the old fluid in the unit and the two had some kind of reaction.

There was no cloth or paper covering on the filter--it is a very fine mesh woven metal screen. Having said that, I have seen more than one screen having holes for some unknown reason--maybe wear or vibration against the pan or clumsy handling. Perhaps there was an attempt by the rebuilder to plug such a hole with something. Perhaps something like cloth or paper was even left inside during the rebuild.

To drain the converter, the plugs on the early converters are accessed from the front of the flex plate. After removing the lower flywheel cover, you turn the flex plate until you can see and access a plug thru a hole in the plate. Loosen that one for a vent and turn the plate until the other one is in position then remove it to drain. There have been a couple of reports of sediment plugging the drain holes so keep that in mind if nothing comes out when plug removed. If the lint has gotten so bad as to get inside the valve body or dispersed thru the unit, then I suspect a full cleaning will be needed. A drain only will probably never get it all out.

Going back to one of your earlier posts mentions the throttle linkage. As others have said, that is so critical get that in order as a priority. If the resulting pressures that are determined by the linkage are too low and high range clutch or bands is not engaging solidly because of low pressure, that could possibly be the source of the problem and dark fluid. It may not smell burned but if it got hot enough to turn black then who knows what other reactions might be happening. The new fluid could quickly have the same fate.

Wow that post about transmission fluid was informative.

Not knowing which fluid was in the trans before and running the trick-shift fluid lately. How can I test to see if Type-F
is compatible ? Would I see something if I mix it with the black stuff I just pulled out of the trans ? The person that rebuilt the trans is currently unavailable so I can't ask him.

Going to fill it again with Type-F and see if it works.

Interesting the filter was so clogged that a bunch of fluid came out after I disconnected the filter. The lint appeared to only be on the outside of the screen. If this is the case would you think that the trans is toast ? It did have fluid just couldn't circulate it very well.

Thanks
OTG

If you're referring to the Fluid FAQ post, then I'm glad you enjoyed it. You'll find similar treatments for other topics if you follow the Frequently Asked Questions link, which also appears along the left side of every page of this site. Though it's a specialized sub-forum, PackardInfo is much more than a message board; take time to explore its treasures.

I'm not personally aware of any simple way to tell what type fluid is in there. I know that some of the petro suppliers used to offer analysis service, but I haven't dealt with that in years. However, I doubt that Dexron and Type F are so different/incompatible that you had to completely flush all traces of previous fluid. Else, there would have been warning to that effect on the TrickShift bottle. Also, it's not like we're dealing with finicky modern transmissions, here, which only work with synthetics and only a specific blend - that any deviation would cause trouble.

Sounds like the screen was plugged so bad that the the trans couldn't pull enough fluid to develop sufficient pressure to apply the bands or clutches. If else nothing but the converter and front pump was turning, that should limit the chance of any friction-related damage.

Still, I don't believe the lint that you found occurs naturally in any transmission. I agree with HH56's suggestion that something was left inside the trans that didn't belong there.

BTW, you can inspect and clean the governor on these early Ultramatics - that is, those prior to the Gear Start edition - with trans in-car and without even removing the pan. Look for the governor cover on the right rear of the case - just ahead of the tailshaft housing.

Disassembly and cleaning of the governor is described on page 29 of the Ultramatic Drive Serviceman's Training Book in the site's Literature and Manuals archive. (It's FREE.)

Yet, note that SC Vol. 24, No. 10, p. 48 specifies WIRE brushes should NOT be used for cleaning - only nylon-bristled ones. Additional articles and bulletins on your Ultramatic can be found through this site's 48-50 Service Index.

I have been so focused on the pan didn't even think about the governor. Good idea. See if the whateveritis is in there too. Bit if a coincidence that the governor was acting up also during this time. Shoulda dropped the pan when the governor started acting up. Hindsite is...

OH interesting thing. I dropped the TC cover and removed the two plugs. NOTHING came out ! NADA ZIP. Put a piece of cloth in the hole and it came back with a hint of trans fluid. Now this can't be good. If you let it sit long enough will the TC completely drain out ? (Think I already know the answer to this but humor me)

Going to put what 11qts? of type-F in there and see what happens.


OTG

Hard to say, at this point, whether the fluid supply/return circuits for the converter are plugged with any of the suspicious foreign matter that may have been finer than the screen.

What you find in the governor might provide a clue. If it's not plugged up, all you can do is refill, per the manual and bulletin previously cited (not all 11 at once), and give it a try.

Cross your fingers, but don't hold your breath.

If that doesn't work, then a tear down is in order, but that'll likely cost less than a conversion.

Even if your Ultra manages to come back to life with nothing but clean fluid, you'll wanna drop the pan again, after some miles, to check the screen for further accumulation of foreign matter.

One of the other posters found his plug opening to be completely packed and plugged. Believe he used a wire to undo the sediment before it would drain. Should be more than a trace inside. Even if it were not getting a fresh supply, would expect at least a quarter to half full amount would still be there.