Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Can one of you V8 guys that have power windows take a picture for the wiring conduit between the door and the door jam. I would like to see what it looks like and how it is routed as I will be adding power windows (aftermarket electric) and power locks to my '54. So I want to copy the how the 55/56 conduit was run. I already have a set of '56 window swtiches, and a '56 "Electro Locks" under-dash swtich.

Will these work? They're not the best pics, but the only ones I have at this time.

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Thanks for that Eric.

Ok, I have that same depression in the door jam, just no holes cut. Is the conduit basically just rubber hose?

Also when the door shut, does the conduit slide into kick panel, or into the door cavity?

Also does anyone have a reverse pic showing the door side where the conduit goes is goes in?

It's actually a moulded double rubber "hose", "tubing", or whatever. I would think that someone like Steele Rubber would make them. All of the ones on the cars I've seen are brittle and easily broken.

Steele has one listed in 1948 section that will work but is not ribbed like 55-6. The hole edges have to be protected as the hose is fixed but flexes at cowl side and slides in and out the door about 6 inches. The original edges on mine when stripped appeared to be a smooth piece welded in but I think a modern plastic grommet strip could be used and painted. Maybe a plastic "chrome" door edge strip might work if it can be made flexible enough to go around. RV places have a decorative flexible edge strip also but might be too thick. Ideal would be electronic chassis protector strip as it comes in various sizes but most stores don't want to stock that stuff much anymore.

EDIT: Was thinking you being a smart fella, maybe something like this could be adapted and made to look sorta orginal for lots less money. Watsons has several sizeshttp://www.watsons-streetworks.com/holeshot_door_solenoids.html

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Howard,

Thanks for that link. I think the "Nylon and Billet Door Wire Looms" may be the way to go. Black tubing with a billet grommet. That should give it a nice finished look.

I will need to but pen to paper and figure out what my wire fill is going to be. Once I do that, then I can figure out what diameter of tubing will be needed. I may need to run a bigger diameter tubing on the drivers door because of the extra wires for the "Master Control" window switch.

I figure you will have the following (just off the top of my head):

Driver Door:
1 Window Main Power Feed
6 wires to feed the other 3 doors from the main window switch (polarity swtiching)
2 Wires to feed the power lock motor (polarity swtiching)
===========================================
9

Other Door(s) (per door):
1 Window power feed
2 Wires to feed the power lock motor (polarity swiching)
2 Wires for remote window control (polarity stitching)
===========================================
5

Obviously this may change based upon relay locations, alarm integration and control points. I will also need to figure out what size wire I will need to run for the various power feeds based on motor load.

The power locks will be controlled by both the Alarm brain, and the 1956 "Electo-Locks" swtich under the dash. The windows will be hooked up per the aftermarket window motors instuctions, but will use the '56 (4 door) window switches.

Depending on the Alarm module I purchase, I can also integrate that in to the window control. I will also wire in the remote trunk pop, and tie in the door interior light swtiches. Also a hood and truck alarm swtich is probably in order. Most alarm modules now allow you to add convience features that are in newer cars, that were not in old ones. Thinks like remote truck pop, keyless entry, and dome light entry and exit delays. I will probably just skip the Remote start option. I was never a fan of those. Also most Alarms have all the replays onboad now. So everything is in one small footprint under the dash. So really the only visible part of all this will be the '56 Window swtiches. Everything else will be either in the door shell, or up under the dash.

Finally I can reuse all that knowledge of my mis-spent youth where I was installing car stereos and alarms.

Looks like you have things well thought out. Am not familiar with all components you have planned but sounds good---and a bit of work since I don't recall anyone advertising adapter kits for 54 Packards. Have you settled on which window system you are going with--see several different types from "ribbon tape to cable to replace your hand crank with an add on motor" so curious as to what you picked and the advantage.

Because the glass is straight, this makes this pretty easy.

I'll remove the stock handle and crank, and also the entire window regulator. A new window motor and center track will get bolted in. A new bottom channel attaches to the glass (the old one is remove), and then the channel rides up an down on the center track.

This is similar to what a lot of newer cars use instead of the Scissor-Style regulator.

Here is a link:

http://www.ezwiring.com/power_windows.html

All the door panels need to be replace any way, so the window crank hole will disappear with the new upholstery. The Window switches will then be mounted normally where they would be in a Power Windows equipted model.

The power door locks are even easier. Those are just a in/out style solenoid that attaches to the existing lock via a cable or rod. Typically the solenoid extends to unlock the door, and then retracts to lock the door. All the existing door hardware (key hole, latch, lock knob, handles) still work the same.