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Re: Newbie Questions. 1937 120
#11
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Owen_Dyneto
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In addition to what's been mentioned and what's obvious, you might want to take a look at the fan belt fit; many times we find incorrect (too narrow) belts fited. Remember, the belt should ride on the side flanges and NOT on the bottom of the groove.

Posted on: 2012/4/9 20:18
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Re: Newbie Questions. 1937 120
#12
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Gene
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Back before the electronically controlled radiator fan you would frequently see many cars over on the side of the road due to overheating if there were a delay in traffic. If you are setting at idle, your fan is running at a lower speed and pushing less air into the cooling vanes of the radiator. When you get up to speed it will cool back down. I remember that it was common practice, in warm weather. to shut your engine off if you were going to be waiting over just a few minutes in traffic.
Gene

Posted on: 2012/4/10 6:04
1949 Packard Super 8 Limousine
1939 Buick Special

War doesn't determine who's right; war determines who's left.
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Re: Newbie Questions. 1937 120
#13
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su8overdrive
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Chad, Owen and Gene are absolutely right above. If modern cars had temperature gauges instead of the idiot lights introduced by Hudson in 1934, lotta people'd have a rude awakening. Also, modern cars have a recovery system old cars lacked. Be careful you get the right-fitting fanbelt, but don't overtighten, because it's murder on your water pump. Remember, since you're in sunny SoCal, run nothing but water and a quality rust/corrosion inhibitor, NO antifreeze, because water dissipates heat vastly better.

As a belt and suspenders hedge against getting caught in hellacious greater Bay Area traffic during a summer exercise run, i installed a nearly invisible Scott's auxilliary electric cooling fan. I've never had to use it.

You didn't mention whether your engine is overhauled, rebuilt, or largely original condition, but it never hurts to fast idle your engine while a garden hose fills the radiator at the same speed your rear block drain allows it to exit, if you can balance in and outflow while reaming the rear of the block with a length of welding rod.

We used to clean cooling systems with a quart or so of kerosene and two or three pounds of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda). Go for a 20 mile drive, drain the cooling system, flush with fresh water, maybe drive again, redrain, then fill with soft water and a product like www.norosion.com

Owned a 120 many years. Ran per the Packard owner's manual, as does my '47 356.

All the posters' advice above mighty fine. One thing for sure, Packards are not innately hot-running cars like 1936-37 Cords or Jag-ue-weres!

Posted on: 2012/4/10 15:05
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