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I have a completely rebuilt 34 standard eight with all new bearings, rings, etc.. The machine shop tells me I need to use a pressurized tank to prime the oiling system, bearings, etc... I have a pressurized tank but not sure how to hook it up. I believe it should be connected to the oil pressure valve assembly located on side of block. There are two lines coming out that loop together through the oil cooler and oil filter. Anyone have experience with this? I have installed the oil pressure gauge on block to measure pressure. My engine rebuilder says, "DO NOT turn engine over until pressurized!!!!" He says I will score the new bearings. It is assembled with prelube and I find it difficult to believe that turning the crankshaft by hand or with starter will do damage. Any thoughts from someone with experience on initial start-up of this style engine would be greatly appreciated. I was also told I cannot spin the oil pump with a drill like the procedure with a more modern V-8. Thank you again in advance (no pun).

Best place to connect your feed tank to the oil pressure relief valve where the return line from the L-6 filter is located. That will fill everything after the filter, bearing galleries, etc. If you rotate the engine slowly by hand while doing that you'll also force oil up the rifle-drilled rods to the wrist pins and will also allow the rod squirt holes to get some oil on the cylinder wall thrust faces. That won't prime the pump but since the pump and intake screen is submerged in oil, shouldn't be a problem.

Remember the pressure relief valve has 2 valves, one to relieve excessive pump pressure and the other to relieve excess pressure to the filter. If you really wanted to flood the oil pump, it's best done before you install it and put the pan up, but you could remove the pressure relief valve completely and just gravity feel some oil back towards the pump. Or you could remove the pressure relieve piston and spring for the pump (not for the filter), recap the outlet, and then pressurize back into the pump thru the filter feed.

Assuming the the engine rebuilder used plenty of a proper assembly oil in all the right places, all of this is probably overkill but why take a voided warranty risk if the rebuilder insists? An alternative to all this is to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine on the starter motor - my 34 Eight usually shows oil pressure within 2 or 3 revolutions.

BTW, I know I'm being picky, but you don't have a 34 Standard Eight, it's proper name is the Eight. I believe the prefix "Standard" was dropped after 1932.

Short and sweet...... If u have assembly lube.... Just turn it over, your fine.

When I rebuilt my 51 327 about two years ago, (first engine I ever overhauled) I was asked by my resident expert if I had primed the oil pump. I told him I had since I had filled the engine with oil and spun the engine by hand, and by the starter with the coil wire off. As a test, we towed the car with it in gear and had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge hooked up to it. We towed it about a mile in gear, but it never built up oil pressure. He quizzed me again on the oil pump priming. What he said that time was "fill the oil pump with some chassis grease from the grease gun, you ***^%$$!" Once I did that, the oil pressure fired right up while the engine was spun over with the starter. He explained to me that the pump needs a heavier viscosity in order to start working when installed. Once it's started pumping, it no longer needs that. I can't explain it, but I know it works. I later talked to an old Hudson mechanic and he told me the same thing. All you have to do is pull the cover plate off and give a few pumps of grease from a grease gun, then bolt it back together. The engine is still running fine, with 45 psi on the aftermarket gauge at a steady 50 mph.

Thank you so much for the insight. And yes I guess I did realize it is not a standard eight... for some reason I am in the habit of calling it that. lol Thank you again.