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So my OD Relay Unit looks like it's been to hell & back. $625 quoted from Kanter... brand new. Now, I know this is a rare animal, and I'm grateful shops like Kanter are providing the service they do, but I'm hoping to start cruising in OD for a bit less cashola. I'm not even above re-working the circuit with a manual switch or two but thought I'd see what the crew here has to say first...

We're talking 2 straight-forward relays inside a metal box... gotta be some way to restore the functions they perform for less than $600. I plan on studying the schematics and thinking outside the box if need be. Maybe there's a shop somewhere willing to rebuild mine? How 'bout a Packard wrecking yard where one can be swiped off a junker?

Open to any ideas... thanks as always,

I guess you've already removed the relay cover and checked for the obvious? Have you checked Hemming Motor News? There is atleast one, possibly more advertisers who repairs units such as that.

I found this supplier when I was doing some work on my OD unit. I haven't used them, but they seem a cheaper alternative to Kanter.

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_3.html

Also, on this forum somewhere is a thread about using a more modern Bosch relay for a replacement. That part was only about $20.00, but obviously not original. I am sure it could be wired inside your old relay cover if you go that route. I can't find it at the moment, but I know it is out there.

I'm not sure how an R9 is wired up but on my R11 I only have one relay and that energizes the solenoid when the governor goes to ground. I have no automatic kick down circuit, I just do it with a toggle switch on the dash and a momentary button to ground out the dist.
The relay just has to be able to hold a 2 amp current with a 10 amp surge. Picked up the relay at a swap meet for $20

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http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_3.html

That's right, I ran across this site as well a while back and thoroughly enjoyed it. I've got an email into the big cheese there, Randy. I'll let you know what comes of it but I'm already encouraged simply by his site's design and content.

Hemming's did have several leads too; just waiting for replies to my queries.

If these become dead ends, Phils38cpe gave me an idea that might work using a variation on your modern starter switch: Off for OD, On for no OD, Start to blip the distributor. If that could be hidden somewhere convenient, I bet it would work out just fine. I've used this kind of switch that was actually a 3 position toggle with a spring loaded return from the Start position.

Keep it stock or cobble something together? Stay tuned...

I'm not sure how an R9 is wired

The R-9 uses a 6-terminal relay, entirely different that the R-11.

I am certain that the R-9 wiring diagrams are in the manual. Look in Section VII
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?300

I believe the relay functions to operate the Electromatic Clutch mechanism also but it's been a while since I looked at the schematic. There is a rebuilt R-9 relay selling on ebay with a "buy it now" of $400.

Yowza... what precious items these are. Well, I'm thinking I don't have a decent core so over $500 is what I'd be looking at. Being a weekend driver, I think I'll go the alternate route instead and try to wire up something homegrown... maybe I'll stumble on one used...

Any veteran EE's out there?

If you haven't already, suggest downloading the service training manual on the econodrivehttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/EconoDriveTrainingBook.pdf There is a schematic and halfway decent description of the R-9 electrical operation.

Obviously, replacing or repairing the original relay assy would be preferred but if that's not practical, it MIGHT be able to be replaced with a pair of modern relays and keep the wiring intact. Actuating relay 1 could be substituted with another capable of carrying the current such as the Bosch and solenoid could be made to work similar to R11 --but 2 caveats.

In the current system, the pull in and hold in coil are both fed from terminal 4 when governor and other switch logic allows relay 1 or actuating relay to engage. The wire to hold in coil at relay is actually terminal 3 but that is fed internally from 4 by being in series with the second relay coil and means that relay also pulls in. It's function is in completing part of the ground out circuit and was eliminated in the R-11. The first kicker comes in determining whether the R-9 solenoid hold in coil could handle being hooked up directly to voltage without that second relay coil in series or if it would overheat. It should be possible to add a resistor if one of sufficient wattage and resistance to the original second relay coil can be easily found if it looks like that may be a problem.

The contact logic of the original assy could be bypassed and almost duplicated with a second Bosch relay. It's coil would be parallel to relay 1 so both actuate at the same time. (Two Bosch singles are much cheaper and easier to find than a DPDT relay with proper specs.) That second relay only uses the normally closed contact to control the ign ground out circuit in conjunction with mechanical contact in solenoid. That is the other kicker because it would have to be determined that mechanical contact stays open when solenoid is not energized since the open series contact in the original second relay is now gone. The R-ll runs the ground out circuit thru the kickdown switch instead of second relay to ensure it stays open when not in use. To do that on yours would require an R-11 switch and wiring changes.

The solenoid will determine if you can do something without using the original relay so the main question is electrical and if something you wish to pursue, could be investigated. I don't think the R-9 solenoid can be replaced with the later one but perhaps someone with both units can compare mounting and plunger length to answer that.